Putting wines into words
The role of the winemaker involves more than the title implies, including the responsibility when the job is done of describing the wine in what are called tasting notes.
It is a precis of these notes that usually ends up on the back label when the wine is bottled.
What a pity, because some of these tasting notes are fun, others wonderfully evocative pieces of work, worth reading even if you prefer to make your own mind up about the characteristics and the qualities of the wine that's in the bottle.
This week, for instance, I received a bottle of Margrains 2007 Rivers Edge, an earlier drinking, excellent value ($24.95) Martinborough pinot noir described on the back label as ... elegant and stylish. Rich in spice and earthy aromoas ...
But in his tasting notes winemaker Strat Canning is at his effusive, lyrical best: Deeply scented Black Forest cherries greet the nose and fuse with wafts of toasted marshmallow, sweet custard pie and freshly snapped cinnamon sticks. Dull hints of well seasoned oak support rather than compete with the floral scent of musky black roses and a savoury, thorny understory like briar growing through straw mulch after recent rain adds an appealing edge.
And how about this: The palate is a combination of tangy fruit and well presented tannins which run through the palate as smoothly as a Humvee over judder bars on an ocean boulevard.
Says Canning, "I think if you asked my old school teachers (after exhuming them) they wouldn't say I had any memorable writing skills. And I remain to this day one of the worst spellers over the age of 12 that I know. I just enjoy sitting down with a bottle of wine and having a bit of fun" .
And somehow he manages to have that fun without trivialising the message.
Peter Gago, who, as senior winemaker for Penfolds in Australia, is responsible for Grange, one of the world's most famous wines, has a way with words too. But he also knows when enough is probably enough.
Describing the classic 2004 edition of the Bin 389 Cabernet Shiraz (about $75) which is also known as Poor Man's Grange, he says in his notes: The supportive oak sits beautifully, seamlessly integrated. Stewed plum flavours meshed with notes of cinnamon, nutmeg and whole black peppercorns (not ground). Would nuances of game terrine with pistachio shell be taking it a bit far? Surely not.
However, not all tasting notes are the work of one winemaker.
Sometimes they are a collaborative effort, as in the case at Cloudy Bay, where a number of people supply the superlatives and the final draft is cobbled together by wordsmiths in the marketing department.
The result are descriptions that really get the tastebuds revving:
The 2007 Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc ($28) is reminiscent of a fresh summer fruit salsa ripe peach, passionfruit, mango and juicy citrus sprinkled with fresh fennel and a dash of Pastis.
The 2002 Pelorus Vintage (about $40) has sumptuous aromas that invoke thoughts of a baker's kitchen warm brioche and almond flan with lashes of cream.
And for the really thoughtful touch you've always got James Millton, the Gisborne winemaker who is never short on words, or thoughts. Describing his succulent, organically grown 2007 Millton Merlot Rose ($20), he notes: Every cultured society requires something light and colourful to sip in the less serious moments. The dense pink colour is similar in shade to the inner-eye of a cock pheasant and the taste enough to rustle the feathers of even the best behaved.
If you didn't fancy this or other of these wines before, how can you possibly resist them now?