A little wine country in downtown suburbia

There's definitely something to be said for wineries that bring their tasting rooms closer to where people live and work. Cinnabar in downtown Saratoga is one of these, and it's a great option for local residents and those who are just interested in sampling a few wines, especially since many of those available at the tasting room are otherwise offered only to wine club members.

If, on the other hand, you would rather make an expedition of your wine tasting, see the vineyards and soak up some of the flavor and aroma of a working winery, Cinnabar may not be your first choice.

Located in the Santa Cruz Mountains appellation, Cinnabar Winery was founded in 1983 but didn't have a tasting room until last year. Founder Tom Mudd named the winery after the burgundy-red mineral compound cinnabar, or mercury sulfide, historically used by alchemists.

The vibe: Though new, the building in which Cinnabar's tasting room is located projects a bit of a French country atmosphere, with a mansard roof and partial brick walls. The interior could fit in well in Napa Valley, with an elegant design that includes intricate glasswork and a large selection of doodads for sale.

The team: Founder Tom Mudd died last year, but his family still owns the winery. Winemaker George Troquato has been with the winery since 1990, and previously worked at his father's winery as well as at J. Lohr. Suzanne Frontz is president and general manager.

The wines: Cinnabar produces 15,000 cases of wine a year, 8,000 of which are its popular 2005 Mercury Rising, a Bordeaux-style blend. Its Santa Cruz Mountains wines - Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Cabernet Sauvignon - are largely estate grown, but these limited-production wines aren't always available for tasting. Most of the others are from the Central Coast. Wines that are available only to wine club members and tasting room visitors include the 2006 Paso Robles Valdiguie, from a red grape typical to Southern France, and the 2005 Dry Creek Valley Zinfandel.

The experience: Our host started out with a friendly and informative introduction to the winery as he began pouring the tastes, which cost $5 for four wines or $10 for a tasting of five reds. However, he tried to push us on joining the wine club enough times that it became unpleasant. The extras: In summer, the tasting room is open late on weekend evenings. From September to May, the second Tuesday of every month, called Alchemy Tuesday, is when the winery hosts talks with local experts on all kinds of subjects. The cost is $15 and includes wine and snacks.

Nearby: Savannah-Chanelle Vineyards (23600 Congress Springs Road; 408-741-2934, savannahchanelle.com) and Cooper-Garrod Estate Vineyards (22645 Garrod Road, Saratoga; 408-867-7116, cgv.com) are the closest. In Los Gatos, there is Testarossa (300-A College Ave., Los Gatos; 408-354-6150, testarossa.com) and Fleming Jenkins (45 W. Main St., Los Gatos; 408-358-4949, flemingjenkins.com).

Cinnabar Winery
14612 Big Basin Way, Saratoga

(408) 867-1010, cinnabarwine.com

Open 11 a.m.-5 p.m. daily

Rating: Rating: TWO STARS
RATING KEY

Four Stars: Extraordinary, Three Stars, Excellent, Two Stars: Good, One Star: Fair, Box: Poor

Chronicle critics make every attempt to remain anonymous. All expenses are paid for by The Chronicle. Star ratings are based on a single visit.