Riesling wines are putting our area on the map
This column is dedicated to the one I love. The grape I love, that is, and its name is Riesling. To pronounce this word correctly, you will have to raise the two corners of your mouth to form a smile. REEEZ-ling. And make that smile a big one.
Quick background. The white grape Riesling makes this white wine (Riesling is a varietal because it's named after the grape from which it is made).
Riesling became famous in Europe, centuries ago. It rocks the German world in regions like the Rheingau, the Rheinhessen, the Ahr, the Nahe and the Mosel-Saar-Ruwer. These regions are named for the rivers that run through them.
For many Americans, our first taste of German wine came in a blue bottle called Liebfraumilch (think Blue Nun). Not a bad wine, but a sweet one. So like anything else, first impressions stick hard. Today, many folks still think of German wines as all being sweet.
That could not be further from the truth. German Rieslings can range in style from bone-dry to dessert-sweet. For some stellar and affordable examples, try Dr. Loosen "L" Riesling ($11), a crisp and classy Mosel style; August Kesseler "R" Riesling ($15), a vibrant and fruity Rheingau specimen; or P.J. Valckenberg Falcon Hill Dry Riesling ($10), a mineral-driven beauty from the picturesque Rheinhessen.
A few miles to the west of Germany's prime wine regions lies the French region of Alsace. This charming little fairy tale land is lined with cobblestone streets, Romanesque churches, quaint outdoor bistros, colorful geranium pots on every windowsill and plenty of winstubs (wine bars) that serve class-act Riesling wine.
Slightly drier and higher in alcohol than their German counterparts, Alsatian Rieslings can be incredibly complex and ultimately food-friendly with dishes such as caramelized onion tarts, quiches, homemade sausages and sauerkraut. Pick up a Trimbach Riesling ($18), a Hugel Riesling ($18) or a Pierre Sparr Riesling ($15) for a tasty intro to Alsace.
Austria is home to some very dignified Riesling as well. Top spots include the Wachau, a valley formed by the famous Danube River, and the Kremstal, which lies downriver a bit. These wines are slightly harder to find on American wine shelves, but look for the zingy Josef Schmid Riesling Vom Urgestein Bergterrassen Trocken ($20), or the refreshingly clean Freie Weingartner Riesling ($12), and you'll soon be hearing the sound of music.
One of the hottest "New World" Riesling regions just happens to be right in our own backyard. The Finger Lakes is now being mentioned in the same breath as the regions mentioned above. Many wine critics admit to being stunned by the quality of the wines that are being produced here. Very cool.
Our Canadian neighbors are also wowing wine palates worldwide. We are on the map, folks, and it is all thanks to our good friend Riesling.
Several weeks ago, an international conference was held in St. Catharines, Ontario, Canada, called The Riesling Experience. It was to be the first biannual celebration of the "style, structure and purity" of Riesling. The guests of honor were Olivier Humbrecht (Alsace, France), Ulrich Fischer (Rheinpfalz, Germany), Jim Willwerth (Ontario, Canada) and David Peterson (owner of Swedish Hill, Goose Watch and Penguin Bay wineries of the Finger Lakes). Peterson is also the proud new father of the Governor's Cup "Wine of the Year," as well as having Swedish Hill crowned as the "Winery of the Year" at the New York Wine and Food Classic on Aug. 20. Bravo — and well-deserved.
From the horse-plowing vineyard techniques in Alsace and the terroir marketing of the Pfalz, to the soil moisture effects of the Niagara region's sub-appellations and the cold winter challenges of the Finger Lakes, this panel kept the audience captivated as they outlined the current state of affairs at headquarter Riesling. And the outlook is quite good indeed.
I am always amazed that Riesling wine is not more mainstream. What exactly has kept this wine from taking its proper place, front and forward, as the most expressive and versatile wine on Earth?
It certainly hasn't been bad wine-making. Perhaps it has been poor marketing. Perhaps it's the labels with too many words and not enough pictures. Perhaps it's the odd, long shape of the bottle, which often will not fit upright on refrigerator shelves. But I think that the most likely reason of all may just be that our Riesling consumption is two sizes too small.
Because if you have ever consumed Riesling, you would most undoubtedly return, again and again. From dry to sweet, there is a Riesling for everyone. It complements any fish dish (especially shrimp and scallops), any poultry dish (a must-have for Thanksgiving dinner) and any meat dish (sauerbraten, anyone?).
Riesling will easily quench your thirst on a hot summer day, nicely wash down nachos during football games, greatly enhance your après-ski fondues and always be the life of the party on spring vacation.
Next time, tune in for some local Riesling favorites. Fall wine-touring season is straight ahead, and no excuses this year for not getting out into the Finger Lakes (and supporting our star grape).