The return of the native grapes
We Americans are the planet's biggest wine consumers, and there's been a worry in the wine world about the pressure growers and winemakers feel to cater to our tastes - to produce ever more cabernet sauvignon and chardonnay.
Thanks, perhaps, to the slumping dollar, this is clearly not the case these days. Plenty of winemakers are sticking to their native varietals - from mavrodaphne in Greece to tannat in Uruguay. Here's a small celebration of that trend:
Priorato, Spain: An hour's drive southwest of bustling Barcelona, the Priorato region is so pretty you want to stop your car to look and so quiet you can hear the birds sing. This area's wines boomed in the 1800s, then fell from favor. In the past 10 years or so, they've been roaring back.
Catalonian pop singer Luis Llach is a major player. With his longtime friend, Enrico Costa, he has launched three wines based on the region's traditional grapes, carinena and garnacha, plus nonnative varietals like merlot, syrah and - well, OK - cabernet sauvignon, but only about 10 percent.
These are big, lush wines, with ripe tannins and smooth flavors; fans say they taste like warm blueberry pie.
Rhone Valley, France: On the northern reaches of the Rhone River in eastern France, syrah is king, making powerful red wines that can be drunk young but often benefit from 10 years of aging. In the southern Rhone, grenache and mourvedre grapes are often added to the syrah for softer, earlier-drinking reds.
Tuscany, Italy: Tuscany's famous for Chianti, from the sangiovese grape, but it makes a lot more. In Southern Tuscany, around the medieval town of Montalcino, growers plant a grape called brunello - variously described as "sangiovese on steroids" and "sangiovese grosso." It's a powerhouse, making powerful wines.
HIGHLY RECOMMENDED
2005 Cellar Vall Llach, DOQ Priorato: deep blue velvet in color, with big, rich but not tannic flavors of black plums and mocha; smooth, opulent; $85.
2003 Castello Banfi Brunello di Montalcino DOCG, Tuscany: powerful tart cherry and black pepper flavors; big and rich, with big, ripe tannins and a long, smooth finish; $75.
RECOMMENDED
Idus de Vall Llach DOQ Priorato: dark color; black cherries and black coffee; minerals and herbs; $55.
Embruix de Vall Llach DOQ Priorato: soft blackberry flavors; cardamom and licorice; $34.
2005 Philippe Faury, Saint Joseph Red Wine, AOC, Rhone Valley: classic Rhone aromas and flavors of tar and roses, plus black cherries and roasted meat; $28.
2004 Chateau de Saint Cosme Saint-Joseph, AOC, Rhone Valley: black pepper and black cherries; spicy and smooth; $33.
2004 E. Guigal Crozes-Hermitage, AOC, Rhone Valley: black plums and black pepper; lively acid; bright and fruity; $18.
2006 Castello Banfi Rosso di Montalcino DOC: Brunello's little brother, it's light and lively, with tart cherry and cinnamon flavors and lively acid; $23.