WEINBERG'S WINE NOTES: Let your tastes flow with the seasons

So here it is just after Labor Day and my problem is that it's too early for an Indian-summer getaway and too late to go to the pool. No doubt about it, I'm mired in the the post- summer blahs. But believe it or not, such diabolical doldrums can often be cured by a liberal application of Vitus vinifera. I am, of course, speaking about wine.

With the backyard patio still open until the wee hours, it's not yet the season for thick, heavy juice, but as the heat of August continues to fade, I'm ready to begin again another cycle, the one that leads me away from the lightest of wines toward those that are more substantial.

At this time of year, I like to open medium-bodied whites for friends and family, wines like the beguiling Neil Ellis Sauvignon Blanc Western Cape Sincerely from South Africa, oozing with grapefruit and lime peel. Another excellent choice is the brightly accented D'Arenberg Viognier-Marsanne Hermit Crab, drenched in pears and pie spice. Both wines are quite ripe in character and thus are evocative of fall fruits at the height of perfection.

Another substantial white I'd recommend for autumnal drinking is the versatile Joseph Drouhin Chablis. Rich and round, full of minerals and lemon zest, it's a real crowd- pleaser.

Dry roses also work exceptionally well in the fall, their plump, lip-smacking textures matching perfectly with many types of food. I especially like blush wines made from pinot noir. Be sure to buy some of the fruity, substantial Gloria Ferrer Pinot Noir Rose, dripping with red cherries and spice. Another one to seek out is the intensely floral Van Duzer Pinot Noir Rose, scented with rose petal and strawberries.

Finally, although lighter reds can be drunk at any time of year, they seem to come particularly alive as the air goes crisp. Their darker fruit flavors and moderate tannins match splendidly with the more substantial fare we start to eat as fall rears its chilly head. Look for the light, fresh Perrin & Fils Cotes du Rhone Reserve, brimming with licorice and red cherry notes.

Pinot noir, with its higher acidity, fresh fruitiness and medium tannins and finish, also is a quintessential fall grape. A terrific example is the well-balanced Trinchero Pinot Noir from Napa, a big gob of plums and earth. For a slightly more refined wine, try the sleek and sassy Moshin Pinot Noir from Sonoma, redolent of the fresh herbs and earthy minerals typical of the region.

Cooler weather begs for more substantial juice, and lucky for wine drinkers, the march of the seasons is mimicked in the natural rhythm of our favorite beverage. So as summer changes into fall, try to let your wine preferences flow alongside, so that you're ready for whatever new vinous sensations come your way. For every wine there is a season, and for many of the best of them, that season is now.