Uncorked: Riesling pairs well with Chinese food
Finally we can have a respite from the Beijing Olympics. I am still awestruck by extravagant opening ceremony though word now comes that lip-synching and technological enhancements were involved. Some 2,008 drummers hammered away on ancient drums in the opening act alone and also returned for the closing ceremonies. Zhang Yimou, Chinese filmmaker perhaps best known for directing movies like "Crouching Tiger, Hidden Dragon" was the creative genius behind the extravaganzas. When asked by a reporter how many performers participated in this combination art and technological feast for the eyes, Yimou verified the number to be 15,000 in the opening ceremony alone and replied, "Well, we have the people."
China does have the people some 1.3 billion of them according to latest estimates and an increasing percentage have more disposable income than anyone could have ever imagined. One study estimates China has more households making at least $50,000 a year than France has people.
With this new found affluence, China is rapidly becoming the largest market for luxury goods. The nouveau riche are eager to pony up for Cartier, Prada and Louis Vuitton. Interesting, since China is one of the major producers of fake designer goods sold in the West.
This booming economy offers great opportunity for those who make and sell wine. Though China has an ancient history of wine, domestic wine production has only been encouraged for the past twenty-five years. The Chinese populace consumes all domestic wine currently produced. It is not likely they will be flooding the international market with their domestic wines any time soon.
China's libations of choice are beer and grain alcohol. They are cheap and the general population of China is still very poor. While China has 1.3 billion people, it is estimated there is an untapped market of 175 to 200 million folks who are potential customers for luxury goods including wine, but getting the Chinese to embrace wine as an integral part of the dining experience may be challenging because of cultural differences.
An article written by a Chinese journalist and appearing on the Wine Culture China Web site, describes these cultural differences thusly: "Most Chinese people drink spirit for gaiety, and they usually drink large amount of spirit to express their feeling. However, people drink wine usually take small amount to taste."
Despite cultural differences, wine is making inroads into this culture. This has a lot to do with China's hosting the Olympics and the subsequent building boom that has ensued since it was announced Beijing would be the host city for the Games. There has been a hotel and restaurant building boom, but the housing industry is also booming. For the first time in history, China's emerging middle and upper classes are acquiring modern kitchens and appliances along with spaces for entertaining at home. It is inevitable this group would be led to wine.
France is the largest supplier of wine to China. The Chinese super rich are among the top customers for expensive, first growth Bordeaux wines. Hopefully they are not cutting them with Seven-Up or green tea as has been Chinese custom in the past. Australia, Italy, Spain Chile, and the US in that order round out the top six suppliers. Woodbridge, Robert Mondavi, Franciscan Estates, Ravenswood, Simi, Gallo Brands, Kendall Jackson, and Wente are among the Western producers with a presence in China.
These companies along with others entering the Chinese market will need to provide significant education if a wine culture is to be created in China like that of the West. The greatest potential for sales of American wines in China is the emerging new middle class. Although their average consumption is minimal in comparison to America's, their sheer numbers offer great opportunity to wine purveyors who have the patience to court their business.
If all this talk about all things Chinese has you hankering for Chinese take out, there are no locally available Chinese wines, but when asked about wines that go best with Chinese food, my answer is always riesling. I frequently recommend riesling for the American Thanksgiving meal because of the diversity of ingredients making up that meal. For the same reason, because a Chinese meal involves such diversity of ingredients, flavors, and preparations, riesling provides a safe pairing when left uncut by green tea.