South Africa's Wine IndustrySays Goodbye to Apartheid
Wine production in South Africa dates back over 300 years ago when Dutch colonists vinified the wild grapes they found growing in the southern Cape region. These colonists were dispatched by the Dutch East India Company to establish a restocking station for provisions halfway between Europe and the spice riches of the East Indies. That first wine caused the settlers to send word to Europe to load vine cuttings on the next ship out. In February 1659 grapes from these imported vines were pressed for the first time and an industry was born.
However, South African wines were virtually unknown in the U.S. until the 1990's when the trade sanctions inspired by racial apartheid were lifted. The South African industry was originally based on cooperatives established by the Dutch settlers to serve the European market with relatively inexpensive wines from both white and red grape vineyards. Leading varietals are Chenin Blanc, inexpensive wines from both white and red grape vineyards. Leading varietals are Chenin Blanc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Shiraz and a grape unique to the region, Pinotage, a cross of Pinot Noir and Cinsault created in the early 1920's. Today, South Africa has a $3 billion industry and private estate labels are numerous. Oregon shelves have now been targeted by a new South African supplier, Heritage Link brands. While private estates with a Dutch heritage are a majority of production, Heritage Link was created to serve black-owned labels developed after apartheid was abolished. An African American couple with Harvard business school masters degrees, Khary and Selena Cuffe founded Heritage Link in 2005 after they attended a South African wine feastival and realized that nation's vinous heritage. They sought a particular niche as an importer and targeted the need for marketing aid to bring black-owned producers into international trade.
Tasting the Wines
Heritage currently represents four labels producing wines from the Stellenbosch region near Capetown...Bowland, M'hudi, Seven Sisters and Eden's Vineyards. The importer forwarded three reds for our sampling...M'hudi 2005 Pinotage, Bouwland 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon/ Merlot and Seven Sisters 2006 Pinotage/Shiraz.. Each of these bottlings are well worth their mid-pricd range. Bouwland is vinified by a 60 black farmer coop. This blend is deep red and full bodied, with the Merlot smoothing out any harshness in the Cabernet...local cost $12.99. M'hudi is produced from a 42-hectare farm owned by the Rangaka family and named for the heroine of a black African legend. This is a classic example of the Pinotage possibilities...cost $16.99. Seven Sisters is a product of the Brutus family sisterhood and the bottling is 60% Pinotage, 40% Shiraz and very complex in flavors...cost $14.99. Heritage seems to have an affinity for female vinous efforts, representing the Eden's Vineyard label from an all-female enterprise. Heritage has also brought South African whites to Oregon, including M'hudi Sauvignon Blanc and Seven Sisters Chenin Blanc. The latter grape achieves its full potential in South Africa, outshining its native land of France and is a richly flavored accompaniment to seafood. Other Sips...Portland is a hot bed of soccer fans and thus qualifies for introduction in this market of Leblon Cachaca, a smooth version of the natural cane sugar dsitillation known as Brazilian rum. This is distilled in small batch copper pot stills and aged in French oak barrels...a fine replacement for tequila....The Dundee Hills is Oregon's premier wine appelation and is welcoming some new labels. We salute the Black family's Four Graces label that adorns Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris and Pinot Blanc, all emanating from the skilled hands of winemaker Laurent Monatlieu, a Frenchman originally brought to these shores by the owners of Willakenzie winery.