Wine: Rise of Washington rieslings should excite all palates
Research by the ACNielsen Co. shows that for each of the last three years, riesling has been the fastest growing white wine grape sold in the country.
Over that three-year period, riesling sales have increased 54 percent. That obviously pleased Washington state producers, who make more riesling than any other region of the country. Part of the reason for those increases probably centers on a younger generation looking for wines with less oak.
Another reason may be the emergence of more dry rieslings from Washington instead of the very sweet rieslings produced in the 1980s and 1990s. The proper balance of acidity and sugar can produce noble, food-friendly wines - a fact European riesling makers have known for centuries.
I asked my wine-tasting panel to compare five Washington state rieslings in a blind tasting. The results follow from what my panel said was a surprisingly good flight for under $15.
2006 Columbia Winery Cellarmaster's Columbia Valley Riesling, $13.99. In the aroma, we found dusty fruit, apples, pomegranates, herbs and a hint of oil. This wine tickled the tongue with flavors of ripe McIntosh apples and a bit of brininess. It was well balanced, not too sweet. It ranked first in our tasting.
2007 Hogue Columbia Valley Riesling, $8.99. There were lots of scents: lemon-lime, peaches, nectarines, pears, gooseberries, minerals, oil, cinnamon and white pepper. In the mouth, the wine was dry, mouthwatering and juicy with citrus flavors. It had a light texture that was almost effervescent. Ranked second in our tasting, it was a nice alternative to the Columbia Winery at $5 a bottle less.
2007 Flying Fish Washington Riesling, $14.99. We discovered aromas of cotton candy, apricots, lemon peel, peaches, tangerines and baby aspirin. Not as bright as the others, but with more weight on the tongue, this wine had nice flavors of apples with the acidity and fruit in balance. Tasters thought this wine reminded them of apple cider - with a punch.
2007 Silver Lake Roza Rattlesnake Hills Riesling, $10.99. The aroma reminded us of unripe pears, white grape juice and white cranberries. The wine's sugary sweet character made it richer and more viscous than the others. It was almost syrupy for those who prefer that style.
2006 Milbrandt Traditions Washington Riesling, $14.99. A subtle, restrained nose offered melon, petrol and a dusty minerality. We found flavors of citrus peel and mealy apples that were somewhat bitter in the aftertaste. This was the driest wine in the tasting, but it was also slightly out of balance.
Surfing the wine shelves:
2001 Sartori Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Corte Bra, $41. A brilliant bouquet of dried plums, cherries, black currants and figs. Very dry in the mouth, with a nice cherry flavor on the finish. Rich and round in the mouth.
2004 Dolce, $85. Undeniably sweet but perfectly balanced, this late harvest California wine offered aromas of apricots, figs, pears and tropical fruit with hints of earthiness and nuts. Rich but clean on the palate, each swallow of wine demanded another.
2006 Tormaresca Chardonnay Puglia IGT, $10. A fairly straightforward wine with flavors of pears, pineapple, mango and orange. A hint of minerals on the finish.
2004 Banfi Mandrielle Sant'Antimo, $36. Aromas of juicy cherries, plums, tobacco, leather, wood and minerals. Made from 100 percent merlot grapes, this Italian wine had a soft texture and good balance.
2005 St. Clement Oroppas, $55. This California cabernet sauvignon, blended with 7 percent merlot, showed aromas of dark cherries, blueberries, cocoa and spice. In the mouth, the wine reminded us of chocolate-covered cherries, followed by flavors of raspberries, cherries and apples. The finish was very long,
2004 Villa Cerna Chianti Classico Riserva, $22. Aromas of black cherries, leather, cigar box and dark fruit. The fruit and plentiful acids were nicely balanced in a smooth texture.