Switch up your wine selections for fall

  Monday was the autumnal equinox, which announces the arrival of fall, so the topic of autumn wines seems most appropriate.

  I understand that some wine lovers choose their wines around the changing of the seasons and the challenge of new menu ideas that create new tastes, flavors and textures in the kitchen.

  So, let's put away the lighter styles of wines we normally associate with spring and summer and turn our attention to the wines of autumn. What wines do you think of when you begin to plan your autumn meals?

  In the spring and summer weather, we look for lighter styles of wine that are thirst quenching, such as crisp, acidic sauvignon blancs; light, refreshing pinot grigios; and mouth-watering rose wines. These are great with the fresh fruits and vegetables of summer, but lack a little something when autumn arrives and our palate turns to seasonal dishes that need more substance in our wine selections.

  Let's start by thinking about some autumn dishes that may include butter and butter sauces and an array of mushrooms. This might suggest a medium or even full-bodied white wine like a good chardonnay from California, Virginia or Australia. I enjoy a simple baked or roasted chicken with a good chardonnay, especially if the dish has a cream or butter sauce to set it off. The buttery, oaky flavors one finds in today's chardonnays create a great marriage with this autumn dish and go equally well with roast pork and a well-seasoned Cornish hen.

  Think of the flavors of sautéed apples or mushrooms in a creamy sauce, and try pairing this with a medium bodied chardonnay. Autumn also is the time for wonderful risotto dishes that marry well with a variety of chardonnay styles. Watch out for the level of oak in the chardonnay, as too much oak makes for a rather difficult pairing with lighter meat dishes.

  One of the most exciting white wines out there today that will make an autumn meal complete is the viognier. Though this varietal originated in the Rhone valley of France and is the essence of the Condrieu wines, viognier is now being produced all over the world. A good viognier has a great balance of fruit flavors and a touch of peaches and cream on the palate. Like the chardonnay, the viognier goes well with rich, creamy dishes and even some spicy dishes made with cinnamon, cumin and fragrant curries. Viognier marries well with roast pork, chicken and some lobster dishes that have a degree of richness to them. Think of autumn dishes that express fruits like apricots, peaches and oranges, and you will find that a good viognier is a perfect partner.

  For autumn reds, I think of lighter styles of red wine like a good Beaujolais or a pinot noir. My personal favorite with a good Beaujolais is coq au vin, a lovely, simple chicken and wine dish that can make an autumn day complete. You can choose from a wonderful cru Beaujolais such as a Julienas or Morgon or opt for less expensive but satisfying Beaujolais-Village. This varietal offers you a lighter-bodied red wine with subtle red fruit and strawberry flavors without the tannins you find in many heavier red wines. Beaujolais marries well with grilled meat dishes as well as roasted chicken, roast pork and sausages.

  Pinot noir is a truly seductive light to medium bodied red wine that can marry with a wide variety of autumn dishes, including beef, chicken, roast duck and lamb. It is a great accompaniment to dishes that include mushrooms and garlic and is a favorite with many wild game dishes like pheasant, quail and duck. One of my favorite pinot noir pairings would include grilled salmon or grilled Ahi tuna steaks. If you are a fan of rich risotto dishes in the autumn, then you should think of trying a pinot noir from Oregon or one of the exciting new pinots from New Zealand.

  There are, of course, many other white and red wines that one can suggest for those cool autumn days. Think of trying a lovely, dry gewürztraminer white wine from the Alsace or a cabernet franc red wine from Virginia. The very best way to find the perfect autumnal wine and food pairing is to try a wide variety of light to medium bodied white and red wines as you create those fall menus. Winter isn't far away, so start checking out the cabernets and merlots in the cellar.