Wines of the week

It is rare that a wine's quality does not reflect its price. However, there are exceptions. The wines of the week are reserved for those wines that show both exceptional quality and outstanding value.

UNDER $15: EVERYDAY DRINKING

A Simple, Fresh Red Not to Be Underestimated

Saint-Chinian 2006, Cuvée Tradition, Clos Bagatelle, France red, $13.20, SAQ # 446153. Like a fresh, summer berry parfait, this is a delicate wine with a supple, almost creamy mouth feel that stays remarkably fresh. Easy-drinking, satisfying, this is simple, yes, but not dumb. As you drink your way through the bottle, it gains in complexity - adding rosemary and other herbs to the ripe red berries. A consummate weekday wine, it will match with almost any food. Drink now-2010. Food pairing: Vegetarian meals, chicken and other white meats in sauce.

$15-$25: MID-PRICED MARVEL

OAKY AND ALCOHOL-HEAVY BUT THE BALANCE IS THERE

Vinho regional Alentejano 2004, Dona Maria, Julio Tassara Bastos, Portugal red, $18.95, SAQ # 10839061. While the oak is still in overdrive, there is some spectacular fruit here. The aragonez (tempranillo) and cabernet sauvignon-dominated blend shows very ripe black plums, cherries, blackberry with rich, toasty overtones. The tannins are supple, the texture is gorgeous, and despite its 14.5-per-cent alcohol, the balance is superb. Despite its power, the wine stays elegant and refined. Drink now-2012. Food pairing: Duck and other rich meats.

$25 and Up: for a Treat

An Unusual Italian Blend With the Traminer Grape

Sant'Antimo Bianco 2004, Le Grance, Caparzo, Italy white, $25.40, SAQ # 10845154. A unique chardonnay-dominated blend with sauvignon blanc and traminer. Despite the strange choice of bedfellows, it works incredibly well. So rich and gentle aromatically - browning apples, almonds, brown sugar, with just a hint of dried flowers. A touch of nuts and grapefruit on the finale keeps this wine so very fresh. Fans of classic white Burgundy will really like this - and at a great price. Drink now-2011. Food pairing: Ris de veau, breaded veal.

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