Hanging with Australia's finest
It's a good week when two of Australia's most talented winemakers are in town.
That was the case recently when Penfolds' Peter Gago and Yalumba's Jane Ferrari were in Calgary.
Gago is the chief winemaker for Penfolds, and a tireless ambassador for the winery. His knowledge and relaxed demeanour make him one of the most charismatic wine educators in the business. When he's not overseeing Penfolds' considerable array of wines, he's on the road conducting re-corking clinics and hosting Rewards of Patience tastings.
Email to a friendEmail to a friendPrinter friendlyPrinter friendly
Font:
The tastings were created to demonstrate the age-ability of Penfolds wines; the winery even publishes a comprehensive textbook of tasting notes compiled by wine experts from around the globe.
During his latest visit, Gago hosted an intimate dinner at Tribune restaurant. As usual, he presented a great cross-section of Penfolds wines that had aged gracefully or demonstrated the ability to do so. The current release of the Bin 389 ($43) is sometimes referred to as baby Grange (in reference to the winery's flagship wine) and is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz sourced from different regions across South Australia.
I've tasted this wine after it has spent more than two decades in a cellar and it soldiers on admirably. I was also impressed with the latest vintage of Yattarna, the winery's flagship Chardonnay. It's rich, with considerable structure and minerality, a luxurious Chardonnay that should drink well for the next two to three years.
Yalumba is Australia's oldest family-owned winery; it was founded in 1849 by the late Samuel Smith, a British migrant and English brewer. He purchased a 12-hectare parcel just beyond the southern-eastern boundary of Angaston, and named the vineyard Yalumba, an aboriginal term that refers to all the land around.
Jane Ferrari is the winery's senior winemaker, a character in the best sense of the word, outspoken and honest with a good dose of Aussie humour. I would like to quote a few of her expressions in this column but my guess is that they would not make it past the editors. Let's just say she's colourful and leave it at that!
These days, Yalumba is recognized for wines that offer a winning combination of quality and value. I especially like the Bush Vine Grenache ($22), a spicy red wine produced from 60-year-old-plus vines bursting with red berry fruit, a perennial bargain from Down Under.
I was also impressed with Yalumba's 2005 Wild Ferment Chardonnay (only available in half bottles, $11), a crisp white wine with notes of honeydew melon and white orchard fruits backed by lively acidity.
Cheers!
Geoff Last is a longtime wine merchant and writer and a regular contributor to Orange Life and City Palate magazines. He instructs on food and wine at the Cookbook Company Cooks
Best Cellars
Wine: Yalumba 2006 Eden
Valley Viognier
Country: Australia, from South Australia's Eden Valley
Suggested retail price: $27, GST included
Tasting notes: Yalumba has demonstrated a real knack for Viognier over the years, producing some of the best examples in the country. The 2006 Eden Valley offers classic notes of white peaches and apricots with just a touch of oak. It would go well with salmon, many Asian foods and mild curries.