Sipping in Spain
Czech wines are 'exotic' at the big festival
A bastion of fortified wine on offer at Spain's spectacular Vinoble festival in Jerez. |
Some say it’s the very best wine fair of all. Every two years, in a walled bastion within a medieval enclave, importers and journalists and Masters of Wine from more than 30 countries come to see, to taste — and especially to do business.
Vinoble is the world’s only major exhibition of “noble” wines, meaning fortified, dessert and natural sweet wines. The sixth edition of this laid-back event just wrapped up in, as always, Jerez de la Frontera, part of Spain’s southern province of Cádiz.
Specialized tasting laboratories and seminars were held throughout the four days of the fair, several inside a cool mosque — an irony not lost on the hosts.
Many of the stands were outside, in the beautifully arranged Arabian gardens, redolent with heady floral scents and the serene sound of fountains splashing everywhere. Even in the heat of the day, strolling through the grounds was refreshing — though wisely, the show shut down for a siesta between 2 and 5 each afternoon.
More than 400 wineries were present, gathered from all six wine-producing continents. Aside from the expected producers, one could sample products from Canada, Hungary, India, Mexico and Uruguay. The Czech Republic was conspicuously absent, although the Spanish organizers provided a free stand, sommelier staff and simultaneous translation for me to conduct a tutored tasting of the bottles I brought from a handful of this country’s top sweet-wine producers: Sonberk, Vinselekt-Michlovský, Radomil Baloun and Vinařský dvůr-Jan Stávek.
During each of the four days, these tastings generated a great amount of interest from the public, eager to find out if there really is anything other than beer in this outpost of the wine world. Three Masters of Wine all paid compliments to the samples on offer, as did renowned sherry expert Julian Jeffs. The Spanish media conducted several interviews as well.
According to the daily La Voz, we were, along with India, the most exotic exhibitors.
Winery of the month: Metroflora, Milotice
Another brand-new winery has just popped up in the picturesque town of Milotice near Kyjov. The name alludes to the beginnings of the family’s business in 1990, with a single flower stall in a Prague metro station. This eventually led to a wholesale business selling flowers all over the country. In 2007, after many years as a wine hobbyist, Lubomír Gregorovič founded Vinařství Metroflora using purchased grapes, as his 5-hectare vineyard is not yet bearing fruit. And, since the vines planted are mostly difficult varieties such as Pálava, this will continue, with production likely to remain at around 50,000 bottles per year. But the winery is doing something right — its Chardonnay won the very first competition entered, Vinum Juvenale 2008. Prices range from 110 to 200 Kč ($6.60–12), very reasonable for local wines of quality these days. For more information, check www.metroflora.cz.
Wines of the month
White: Feteasca 2007
Producer: Chateau Vartely, Moldova
New on the market and with a good price-quality relationship, this is a wine from the native Transylvanian grape variety Feteasca (also known as Leányka in Hungary or Pesecká Leánka in Slovakia). Chateau Vartely is a big operation in Moldova, a nation pushing hard for a share of the burgeoning market here. The wine is fresh and light, evoking meadow flowers and apricots. Lean with mineral undertones and a tangy, confident attack. (120 Kč)
Red: Cabernet Moravia 2006 Collegium Vinitorum
Producer: Lubomír Glos, Moravská Nová Ves
As good an example as you will find of this variety, coming from the hybrid’s very creator, the renowned Lubomír Glos. It is a crossing of the Zweigeltrebe and Cabernet Franc cultivars, suitable for growing in warmer sites. The wine it produces is deeply colored and full of character, with earthy and peppery notes. You can find out more about this producer and Collegium Vinitorum at www.collegiumvinitorum.com. (300 Kč)
Events Diary
Znojmo vinobraní (wine harvest) and the “burčákfest” around Znovín winery marks one of the most popular events of the wine calendar. Burčák is still-fermenting new vintage wine, sipped (hopefully) as a long drink and (fortunately) very low in alcohol. Vinobraní takes place over the weekend of Sept.12–13 across all of Znojmo. The burčákfest follows Sept. 26–27 in the Louka monastery (Loucký klášter), and includes a full program of music, pageantry and other entertainment, along with roast piglets, fish and game specialties to help hold the young wine down. This year includes a novelty for women over 18: the opportunity to tread the grapes, a common practice in the Port region but unknown here. Entry to the fest is 150 Kč per person for one day, or 230 Kč for two, and includes four different varieties of burčák. See if you can tell the difference. For more information, check www.znovin.cz or www.albergo.cz.Helena Baker’s wine column appears the first Wednesday of each month. She can be reached at features@praguepost.com
