Spain may become world's top wine producer
In a recent GQ magazine article, renowned food and wine writer Alan Richman casts Spain as a nation poised to dethrone France and Italy as the world's top producer of fine wine.
Some may be surprised to discover that Spain has risen to such lofty heights, but the wine trade has been watching this scenario unfold for at least a decade, if not longer.
I am among the believers, which is evident by the amount of ink I have dedicated to Spanish wine throughout the past few years.
My first trip to Spain was more than a decade ago and it was a revelation: modernization was in full swing and areas like the Rioja, Priorat and Ribera del Duero were clearly poised for greatness. Since that time, lesser-known regions such as Bierzo, Navarra, Montsant, Toro and Jumilla count among areas that have ventured beyond the role of bulk producers, which are about quantity more than quality.
These days, Spain has all of its bases covered. Winemaking superstars such as Alvaro Palacio, Peter Sisseck (of Pingus fame) and Mariano Garcia (formerly of Vega Sicilia, now with Aalto) are turning out some of the most sought-after and expensive wines on the planet.
But I also love Spain for its ability to produce wines that offer both power and individuality at prices that mere mortals can swallow. Many countries can produce wines that sell for $15 but few can deliver the genuine quality that Spain does at this price.
Even celebrated areas like the Rioja have their share of bargains, such as Bodegas Palacio 2005 Crianza ($16), a soft, tasty red wine offering notes of cherry and raspberry, perfect with roast chicken and other casual fare. Or how about the 2004 Equis ($15) from La Mancha? It's a perennial bargain that never disappoints.
Where Spain really shines for me is in the $20 to $50 range as the country produces am array of wines that taste like much more expensive efforts from elsewhere.
In Priorat -- where Alvaro Palacio crafts his $900-a-bottle L'Ermita -- Vinocola del Priorat turns out a serious effort (the 2005 Onix) for a somewhat more modest $30. This blend of Grenache and Carignan typifies the big, bold style that Priorat is known for; it's a gutsy red wine displaying notes of black figs, leather, spice and tobacco backed by firm, ripe tannins.
Another serious effort, this one from the Domino de Valdepusa region of La Mancha, is the 2004 Marques de Grinon Petit Verdot ($47). This grape is traditionally found in Bordeaux, where it is used, sparingly, as a blending varietal, but Grinon has demonstrated great success with it over the years as a mono-varietal. It is a huge, inky wine that could use some time in the cellar to settle down, offering notes of plums, blueberries, black licorice and big, meaty tannins.
When it comes to making wine, Spain may have not conquered France and Italy just yet, but they must have their European neighbours paying attention -- and that's good news for the wine-consuming public. Cheers!
Geoff Last is a longtime Calgary wine merchant and writer and is a regular contributor to Orange Life and City Palate magazines. He instructs on food and wine at the Cookbook Company Cooks.