Picardy Wines offers a taste of the past, with more to come
ONE wonders whether wine, not blood, flows through the veins of the Pannell family.
Dr Bill Pannell, family patriarch, established the famous Margaret River winery, Moss Wood, in 1969. It is still known for one of this country's finest cabernets, and a swag of other great wines. Bill was keen to take the Burgundian varieties of chardonnay and especially pinot noir further, the latter being something difficult in Margaret River, so in 1993, after selling Moss Wood to his long-time assistant Keith Mugford, Bill established Picardy Wines in the fledgling district of Pemberton in the nation's southwest corner. Today, son Dan has taken over the winemaking.
Another son, Steve, was a leading red winemaker at Hardy's for many years, so highly considered that he was once named, in the English magazine Decanter, as one of the 50 most influential people in wine. He has since ventured out on his own and is making small quantities of sensational wine.
Bill and Dan recently decided to take a tasting group through every wine that they have made at Picardy, with the exception of the 1997 pinot noir, as they had long ago drunk the last bottles. Of course, most of these wines are no longer available, but it allowed for an intimate look at the evolution of both the wines and the style. Also, was pinot the success Bill thought it would be here, or did varieties such as shiraz or cabernet perform better in Pemberton?
They have recently started trialling sauvignon blanc and the early results are cautiously encouraging. They are wines that don't seem to demand immediate drinking, but which allow the flavours to expand with an extra six to 12 months ($22).
No caution needed with chardonnay. The 1999 was still showing well, the 2000 even better and the 2001 a step up again. The 2005, with its complexity, life and balance, was my pick, though the Pannells think that the 2007 ($40) will exceed it with time.
The early pinots, back to 1996, were acceptable but no real highlights. The '99 and '00 were a step up, while the 2001 left them all in its wake. These wines tended to the lighter, more elegant end of the spectrum. The 2002 is one of the best wines they have made – fresh, fungal, gamey, earthy and complex – matched by the 2007 ($40) with its supple texture, silky tannins and hints of cherry. Tete de Cuvee is the reserve line. The initial 1999 was a good start, but the '01 and especially the '02 and '05 are the stars. For me, the '03 fades too quickly and there was a sour note to the '04. The 2007 ($55) is looking very exciting.
The shiraz ($30) is perhaps the most consistent wine in the line, with few lows and highs. The 2005 is the pick. The more recent examples of the merlot cabernet ($25) look like they will exceed their older siblings.
The final word to Bill, who says that surely we have not seen the definitive wine from Picardy.