Wine and Spirits / The Italian seal of quality
There are few people in the wine industry more colorful than Angelo Gaja, for even though his top wines are considered among the finest in Italy, he is not especially fond of drinking wine. Despite that, since he took over the family winery in 1970, Gaja has caused a mini-revolution in Piedmont. Although he has never abandoned the traditional Nebbiolo and other grapes of the region, he was the first to plant Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Chardonnay, Cabernet Franc and other traditional French grapes in Piedmont. He was also the first in Piedmont to demand prices for his wines that rival those of the finest Bordeaux Chateaux. In more recent years, Gaja has also set up ventures in Tuscany and these wines are proving as excellent and as dear as those from Piedmont.
Gaja's most expensive wines reach astronomical proportions. The following are reviews of some of those that, although far from inexpensive, are a good value for money. In fact, they sell for about the same here as in the U.S.A. and even less than in the U.K. The wines reviewed can be found at Derekh HaYain stores. Advertisement
Gaja, Barbaresco, Piedmont, 2004: Dark garnet with violet and orange reflections, a full-bodied Barbaresco, showing fine balance between wood, gentle mouth-coating tannins and fruits. On opening attack: Generous red fruits and black truffles, which are followed by notes of minerals and vanilla. Look for appealing notes of earthy minerals on the finish. Approachable now but best starting in 2010, when it will show a fascinating combination of earthiness and elegance. The wine will cellar well until 2020, perhaps longer. NIS 760. Score 94.
Gaja, Barolo, Dagromis, Piedmont, 2003: Made entirely from Nebbiolo grapes, aged for 12 months in barriques and then for an additional 12 months in large oak casks. Dark garnet in color, with mouth-coating near-sweet tannins integrating nicely, it is well on its way to demonstrating elegance. On the nose and palate: red and black berries and cassis flavors, which are supported nicely by notes of licorice, tobacco and bitter-sweet chocolate. Look for appealing notes of Mediterranean herbs on the finish. Approachable and enjoyable now but best 2009-2015. NIS 810. Score 93.
Gaja, Ca'Marcanda, Magari, Tuscany, 2003: A Bordeaux blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc but a wine with Angelo Gaja's distinct Tuscan personality. Inky garnet in color, full-bodied, with a fine balance of soft, near-sweet tannins, spicy wood and fruits. On first attack: black cherries, currants and spring flowers, which part to reveal notes of mint and espresso. On the long finish: generous hints of sweet cedar wood. Long, round and mouth-filling. Drink now-2012. NIS 250. Score 92.
Gaja, Sito Moresco, Langhe, Piedmont, 2005: Dark ruby to garnet, medium- to full-bodied, with a fine-tuned balance between spicy oak, soft tannins, acidity and fruits, a blend of Merlot, Nebbiolo and Cabernet Sauvignon, each fermented separately and then blended for oak aging for 18 months. On first attack: wild red and black berries and currants, which yield to show tempting hints of Oriental spices and all lead to a long fruity finish. Drinking very nicely now but can cellar comfortably until 2011. NIS 200. Score 90.
Gaja, Promis, Ca'Marcanda, Promis, Bolgheri, Tuscany, 2005: Medium- to full-bodied, garnet to royal purple in color, a lightly oaked, gently tannic and well-balanced blend of 55 percent Merlot, 35 percent Syrah and 10 percent Sangiovese. On the nose and palate: raspberries, cherries and red plums along with tantalizing hints of white pepper and smoky oak, all leading to a long near-sweet finish. A superb match to lamb-based lasagna. Drink now-2010. NIS 200. Score 89.
Gaja, Rossj Bass, Langhe, Piedmont, 2006: Golden straw in color, medium-bodied, with a fine balance of alcohol, acidity and fruit, this Chardonnay (with a dash of Sauvignon Blanc) was oak-aged for about six months. On the nose and palate: an appealing array of citrus, pineapple and apple flavors with light overlays of toasted sourdough bread. Finishing with what might be taken as a hint of light Barbados rum. Long and generous. Drink now-2009. NIS 200. Score 88.
Via Antinori
Three wines have recently appeared from the various Tuscany-owned estates of the Marchese Piero Antinori. As has been the case since the 18th century, every wine carrying the Antinori name is literally a guarantee of quality, regardless of whether the wines are simple, everyday quaffers or wines that are meant to be cellared for many years. The following Antinori estate wines are imported by Chevrat HaKerem. To locate the store nearest you carrying the wines telephone (03) 962-7070.
La Braccesca, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, Santa Pia, Tuscany, 2003: Made entirely from Prugnolo Gentile grapes (the local name for Sangiovese), developed in oak for 14 months, a full-bodied red with soft, well-integrated tannins and gentle spicy wood. Opens to reveal generous berry, black cherry and dried red cherry flavors, all against a soft, round background, finishing with a light hint of licorice. Drink now-2010. NIS 157. Score 91.
La Braccesca, Syrah, Achelo, Cortona, Tuscany, 2006: A very nice wine, which lives up to the Antinori standards although it does not much resemble Syrah. Medium- to full-bodied, with somewhat chunky country-style tannins and a generous overlay of spicy oak, which is in fine balance with fruits and simply needs time in the bottle to show at its best. Give the wine two to three years, and the wood will recede to reveal tempting currant and blueberry fruit flavors along with hints of minerals and smoked beef. Best 2009-2012. NIS 95. Score 89.
Fattoria Aldobrandesca, Vie Cave, Maremma, Tuscany, 2006: Unusual for anywhere in Italy because the wine is made primarily from Malbec grapes. A ripe, round wine with soft, gently mouth-coating tannins. Reflects its development in oak casks with light hints of black pepper and white chocolate, complemented by wild berries, plums and appealing notes of licorice and English cake. Round, ripe and generous. Drink now-2012. NIS 112. Score 90.