The Sipping News: Wine list watch on Incanto

Ruiz has been passionate about Italian grapes for more than 20 years and it shows in the knowledgeable selections on the extensive all-Italian wine list.

By the numbers: 13 sparkling wines ($32-$115); 41 whites ($29-$125); 136 reds ($26-$600); 13 dessert ($23-$90); 20 by-the-glass selections, which change a few times weekly ($7-$18) with 2 1/2-ounce tastes also available; 3-4 weekly flights, such as Northern Pinot Noir and Exploring Italy (3-4 tastes/$15-$24).

Markup: Reasonable, averaging slightly more than double retail.

Corkage: $25

Best buy: Not only good deals, but also excellent expressions of grapes: Palazzone Terre Vineate Umbria Orvieto Classico Superiore ($7.50/glass, $23/half liter, $31/bottle) and the Massolino Dolcetto d'Alba ($9/glass, $30/half liter, $39/bottle), a good match for many dishes.

Hidden gem: 2006 La Crotta di Vegneron Valle d'Aosta Pinot Noir Rosé ($8.50/glass, $26/half liter), which can pair with pasta dishes like the duck fat cavatelli, Boccalone sausage, cavolo nero and cannelloni beans.

Special features: By-the-glass wines come with the vintage and producer printed on a loose, round label, which encircles the base of each glass. Ruiz also offers Ed's Quick Picks - five value-priced bottles ($35 and less).

Sommelier's secret: Ruiz is always on the lookout for unusual alternatives to Barolo and Barbaresco. He currently features a Nebbiolo from Lombardy made from partly dried grapes: 2002 Rainoldi Fruttaio Ca'Rizzieri Valtellina Sfursat ($110).

Other: Six beers ($5-$9) plus six nonalcoholic selections, including house-made lavender lemonade ($3) and Jones pure-cane and sugar-free colas ($3.75)

Vitals: 1550 Church St. (at Duncan), San Francisco; (415) 641-4500. Dinner Wed.-Mon. Beer and wine. Reservations and credit cards accepted.