Sauce: Cheap wineJoanna Simon

There are two theories about how wine drinkers react to a recession. One is that they buy more because they share a bottle at home instead of going out. The other — no prizes for guessing — is that they cut back on the grounds that wine is a luxury.

If you had tasted some of the wines I have encountered at recent supermarket tastings, you might question the definition of luxury. All the same, it looks as if the former theory is more a case of wishful thinking on the part of wine sellers. The reality is that consumers are cutting down — buying cheaper or buying less.

The trouble with buying at the bottom end is that the cost of getting any wine to the shelves has risen sharply this year. Duty has jumped by 14p a bottle to £1.46, the euro is punishingly strong and packaging and transport costs have soared. There is also 17.5% Vat to factor in, together with margins for the producer (if he’s lucky), retailer and, perhaps, middleman. We’re fortunate if, at less than £4, the wine accounts for 50p. And even more fortunate if it’s drinkable.

Cellar Notes

2007 Asda Chilean Cabernet Sauvignon, £2.98 Simple, soft and fresh, with blackcurrant-pastille flavours.

2007 Cuvée Pêcheur, Vin de Pays Comté Tolosan, £3.69 Crisp, light, grapey, grassy, off-dry white (Waitrose).

2007 Sainsbury’s Old Vines Tempranillo, £3.69 Medium-bodied Spanish red, with spicy, plummy fruit and a clean, dry finish.

Wine Bluff

“Consumption of wine in India is set to double””

Anorak Fact

Current annual consumption is 5m litres. It is expected to reach 10m litres in 2010