Madeira wines make a sweet, cheaper alternative to port

I like to drink port after dinner, but when I can't afford it, a nice substitute is Madeira.

 Madeira has a long history in the United States. Thomas Jefferson was a fan of this wine, and it was used to toast the Declaration of Independence.

Made from the Malvasia grape on the Portuguese island of Madeira, the wine originally spoiled on sea voyages, so the winemakers added distilled alcohol from cane sugar — later brandy was used — to keep the wine from spoiling. When some of this fortified wine returned unsold from a round-trip voyage, wine makers discovered the wine flavor had changed for the better because it was exposed to excessive, prolonged heat at sea. The wine makers now heat the wine to 140 degrees for an extended period of time to reproduce that flavor.

Madeira labeled Malmsey represents the richest, sweetest and most aromatic of Madeira wines. My wine-tasting group compared four wines from Madeira in a blind tasting. The results:

The Rare Wine Co. 'New York' Malmsey, $44.99. The aroma suggested scents of citrus oil, citrus peel, almonds and sea salt. In the mouth, we found flavors of a triple-fruit marmalade, rich and sweet like a honeycomb, flowing in a lovely texture. This Madeira ranked first in our tasting. One taster said it was "like a shiraz on steroids."

Broadbent Reserve 5-year-old Madeira, $24.99. The nose reminded us of citrus peel, nut skins, blackstrap molasses and herbs. The flavors of nut oils, toffee and orange peel worked with a citrus-like acidity. This was a classic style of Madeira that still tasted fresh.

Blandy's Malmsey Madeira, $27.99. We discovered complex, intense, smoky aromas of dried fruit, toffee, spice and wood. There was great balance between sweetness and acidity, with a very long finish. Our first bottle was corked. A tasting of a second bottle showed a pretty wine that should be served about 60 to 65 degrees (as should most sweet Madeiras).

Leacock's 5-year-old Malmsey Madeira, $25.99. The glass offered sweet-tart aromas of maple syrup and molasses. The palate was rich and creamy, but with good acidity. More delicate than the others.

Surfing the shelves
2005 Charles Krug Peter Mondavi Family Winery Yountville-Napa Cabernet Sauvignon, $27. A pretty nose of black cherries, black currants, coffee and cocoa. The palate mirrored the bouquet, with a lpretty finish.

2006 Clos Pegase Mitsuko's Vineyard Chardonnay, $24. Pretty stone-fruit aromas — peaches and pears — along with scents of apples, nectarines and oak.

2005 Kenwood Vineyards Sonoma County Zinfandel, $14. Fresh fruit aromas of blueberries, raspberries and boysenberries plus cedar, oak and spice notes. Bright and lively in the mouth.

2006 Valley of the Moon Carneros Pinot Noir, $20. Red cherry, eucalyptus and spice aromas arose from the glass. Medium-bodied, this would be a nice choice for those who look for a red wine to go with strongly flavored fish.