Winery can't put Niagara-on-the-Lake on its bottles' labels

Sunnybrook Farm Estates Winery owner Gerald Goertz uses only Ontario- grown fruits to make his popular wines.

But under provincial government rules, Goertz can't put "Ontario" on his black currant or blueberry wine labels.

Thirty-seven terms, including such words as Niagara-on-the-Lake -- where his winery is located -- and Niagara Peninsula are off limits, too.

Only wineries producing grape vino that meets Vintners Quality Alliance of Ontario rules can use the provincially regulated terms.

Fruit wineries and grape wineries that use experimental varieties and are not recognized under the 1999 VQA Act are prohibited from putting Ontario on their bottles.

It frustrates Goertz, who grows cherries, apples, peaches and plums on his Lakeshore Road farm.

"I think it's totally unreasonable," Goertz said.

"It's stupid."

It's something a new winery organization is trying to change.

Recently, the Ontario Viniculture Association issued a memo to its more than 50 members offering them a way of letting customers know their products are local.

Wineries can put up an Ontario Viniculture Association sign on their properties with the words: "Proudly Producing 100% 'Ontario Grown' Wines."

"Our wineries are trying to say what we're doing is homegrown," said organization president Jim Warren, a wine-maker and winery consultant.

"It's local. It's putting more money into the province than imported stuff. Therefore we should at the very least be able to tell people we're 100 per cent Ontario. I don't think that's unfair. I don't think that's outlandish. I don't think it's unreasonable in any way."

Currently fruit wineries can apply to be Quality Certified, undergoing a rigorous testing process similar to that of VQA, but cannot apply for VQA status.

Similarly, grape wineries that fall outside the province's four designated viticultural areas -- Pelee Island, Lake Erie North Shore, Niagara Peninsula and Prince Edward County -- can't apply for VQA status either.

VQA executive director Laurie Macdonald said the term Ontario is considered an appellation -- a geographical description used to pinpoint where the grapes for a wine were grown -- under provincial legislation.

The word Ontario has become linked with quality VQA wines, Macdonald said.

"I think we would be concerned about the integrity of the term," Macdonald said of non-VQA wineries using Ontario.

"I think we've worked pretty hard to maintain quality standards associated with Ontario through the VQA system."

Any changes to the legislation would have to be approved by Queen's Park, Macdonald said.

The Ontario Ministry of Government Services oversees VQA.

Warren said he has a meeting scheduled with Government Services Minister Ted McMeekin this month to discuss labelling issues and a host of other concerns facing fruit wineries and small grape wineries.

"Our members believe they should be able to tell their customers that they are 100 per cent Ontario," said Warren, who co-founded Stoney Ridge Estate Winery in Vineland.