Shiraz tops Geographe’s growing wine region

Shiraz is emerging as the standout wine of the burgeoning Geographe wine region, with wine experts remarking on its rare “voluptuous” flavour.
  
Shiraz grape production in the region, which stretches from Harvey to Busselton, hit more than 2300 tonnes in the 2008 vintage — a major proportion of shiraz grape production in WA.
  
Shiraz from the region is now so sought after that some wineries sell only to an exclusive list of buyers.
  
Pundits say the region’s warm Mediterranean climate — with warm mornings and afternoon sea breezes — makes it well placed to make the superb red.
  
Ferguson Hart Estate owner Merv Hart, who grows shiraz grapes in the Ferguson Valley, just out of Bunbury, is convinced of the region’s excellence after his 2007 shiraz took out the top award at last week’s Geographe wine show. “The climate is more suited than Margaret River (for shiraz),” he said.
  
“In fact, the judges have been to Margaret River and knocked them round the ears a bit and said stick to cabernet merlot, that’s what you do best and you’re sensational at it,” he said.
  
“Disregarding that, I do think that Margaret River has some pretty sensational shiraz.”
  
Mr Hart said the grapes were left on the vine in dappled sunlight to develop sweet flavours.
  
“While it’s a big intense wine, it’s still smooth and round.
  
“We would drop up to 30 per cent of fruit on the ground, and the reason is that the residual 70 per cent gets a lot better flavours . . . sitting in the sun.”
  
Mr Hart has been growing shiraz grapes since 1995, one of a wave of new vineyards that cropped up in what was traditionally dairy and cattle country, and soon had success.
  
Shiraz from the Geographe region is now so sought after that Willow Bridge Estate sells its $60 a bottle 2005 Black Dog Shiraz to an exclusive member list only.
  
Geographe Wine Show president Mark Cumbers said Geographe had been recognised as a distinct wine “region” only nine years ago.
  
“The Geographe has a very Mediterranean climate which differs from Margaret River which is often classed as a Bordeaux type of climate,” he said.
  
Wine judge Kim Horton predicted Geographe shiraz would soon gain wider recognition. “It’s suited to the climate, the wine makers are very aware, you can get a real ripeness of fruit,” he said.