Riesling pairs well with sweet-sour Asian soups

Riesling has long been a top contender for pairing with Asian food and other dishes with salty, sweet, tart, savory and spicy components. Several Southeast Asian countries have a version of sour soup, many of which also include a touch of sweetness for balance and heat from chiles. Vietnam's hot and sour soup is cahn chua, Thailand has tom yum, and Cambodia, samlar machu.

 The souring agent generally used is tamarind, which has a fruity-sweet edge to its tartness; for tom yum, lime or lemon is used.

The wine's acidity stands up to the sourness in the soup, which can be toned down with more broth or a lesser amount of tamarind, lime or lemon. The wine should be as tart or tarter than the soup.

Sweet-Sour Tamarind Soup with Tofu

2 tablespoons tamarind pulp (see Note)

1 cup boiling water

2 stalks lemongrass

1 tablespoon vegetable or canola oil

1/2 small onion, thinly sliced crosswise

1 tablespoon minced garlic

1 cup low-sodium chicken or fish stock

1 1/2 to 2 teaspoons Asian fish sauce

1 medium carrot sliced into thin coins

2 ounces Chinese long beans or green beans, trimmed then cut into 1-inch sections

4 to 5 ounces fried or firm tofu, medium dice

1 small yellow crookneck or zucchini squash, medium dice

5 cremini mushrooms, trimmed and cut into quarters

2 to 4 tablespoons pineapple juice or 1 scant teaspoon light brown sugar to taste

Kosher salt to taste

5 Thai basil leaves, cut into chiffonade

Cilantro leaves (optional)

Instructions: In a small bowl, mix tamarind pulp with boiling water; using two forks, work over the paste until it softens. Set aside, stirring occasionally, until paste dissolves. Strain through a sieve; extract all the tamarind by pressing on solids before discarding. Set aside.

Trim dried outer leaves, dry green tops and hard bottom stem from lemongrass stalks. Cut lemongrass stalks into 3 or 4 sections, then in half lengthwise. Crush sections with side of knife blade. Set aside.

Pour oil into a medium-size pot over medium heat. Add onion and cook briefly until it begins to soften. Add garlic, stirring occasionally until aromatic. Add the stock, fish sauce, lemongrass, 2 cups water and reserved tamarind. Partially cover pot and cook 5 minutes at a hard simmer to meld flavors.

Add carrots, green beans and tofu, reduce heat and simmer 1-2 minutes. Then add squash and mushrooms. Continue to simmer 2-3 minutes more. Remove lemongrass if desired. Taste and adjust with pineapple juice or sugar and salt to taste. Add Thai basil and optional cilantro to garnish.

Note: Tamarind pulp (with seeds) comes in 14- to 16-ounce rectangular blocks and can be found at Asian supermarkets. Choose a brand that feels moist. Tamarind also comes as a jarred concentrate which can be substituted for the paste. Use the same amount.

TWO STARS: 2007 Bergstrom Winery Dr. Bergstrom Willamette Valley Riesling ($28) Warm, spicy Pfalz-like nose with tropical fruit, papaya and a hint of smoke; fuller body and some tautness. Palate has length and edginess to its ripe, rich fruit density.

TWO STARS: 2007 Chateau Ste. Michelle Dry Riesling Columbia Valley Riesling ($9) Faint apple, ripe pear, wet stone and talc aromas with a nice dry palate backed with fresh citrus and perhaps a hint of spritziness. Nice for the price.

TWO STARs: 2007 Holloran Chehalem Mountain Vineyard Willamette Valley Riesling ($20) This wine's fruit has some botrytis and is vinified in a dry style. Honeycomb, fresh pear and tree fruit on the nose. Stony grip, slight pith on palate; somewhat lean and tart with a rigid structure. Very limited production.

TWO AND A HALF STARS: 2007 Holloran Le Pavillon Vineyard Dundee Hills Oregon Riesling ($21.50) More honeycomb than its sibling, plus some petrol and mineral aromas; similar flavors with crisp lemon and a stony, grippy finish. Very limited availability.

TWO STARS: 2007 J. Christopher Willamette Valley Riesling ($20) Dry and light with some slaty grip that follows tangerine rind, green apple and lime. One panelist likened this wine to having an oily nose and an almost Saar-like steeliness and grip. Very limited availability.

TWO AND A HALF STARS: 2007 Jana Leelanau Peninsula Riesling ($28) The lone entrant made with Michigan fruit. Subdued floral nose with hint of pineapple that leads to ripe apple and almost red fruit on the more substantive palate. Tangy and balanced with lengthy finish. Limited production.