Cellar Dweller: Thanksgiving Wine
Happy Thanksgiving!
This is my last column before the most gastronomically exciting holiday of the year, so I thought it would be fun to pair wines with a traditional Thanksgiving dinner. The best part about choosing a wine for Thanksgiving is that there are so many possibilities. You can choose from any color of the wine rainbow.
A Thanksgiving dinner usually centers around a turkey, but there is so much more that is at least implied, if not mandatory—gravy, mashed potatoes, sweet potatoes, cranberry sauce, and that iconic classic, the green bean casserole. While a timid, delicate white might stand up to a turkey, it is doomed to fail miserably when set against the whole gamut. I like to have a white wine on Thanksgiving, but it’s got to be a strong, full-bodied one. A golden, oaky Chardonnay works well—try the 2007 Rodney Strong. This Chardonnay has a warm nose and mellow, buttery undertones with cinnamon and spice. Many people also like to pair turkey with a dry Riesling—Chateau Ste. Michelle makes a nice one—or a Sauterne.
There are many people who swear that the best thing to pair with a meat that falls out somewhere between white and dark is a wine somewhere between white and red: the Rosé. I can’t claim to know much about this. I keep trying and failing to like Rosé. However, if you like Rosé, give it a shot! It might be your dinner’s ideal mate.
If, on the other hand, you are one of those that can only abide the reds, your Thanksgiving choices are a bit narrower. A turkey and a hearty, peppery red such as a Shiraz or a Cabernet will spar with each other through to the last sip and bite. Instead, try an understated, supple red like the California Pinot Noir. Mirassou produces an excellent bottle for around ten dollars. It is plummy with violets on the nose and blueberries and rose water in the mouth, and its soft tannins will stand up to the bold flavors of the side dishes without sparring with the turkey.
Of course, there is still the dessert course to worry about. It’s hard to find a wine that goes with pumpkin pie, so don’t try! Have Cognac instead. A variety of brandy, Cognac is distilled from grapes and aged in oak for at least two years. The final product is usually about 80 proof, or a bit over twice that of wine. Cognac is a perfect partner for a rich, spicy dish like pumpkin pie. Courvoisier is a trustworthy brand, and it comes in tiered prices, the cheapest being V.S. and the more expensive V.S.O.P. or X.O.
For those who literally could not eat another bite, an ice wine is a perfect after-dinner treat. Best sipped on their own or with simple fare such as a cheese plate, ice wines are made from grapes harvested after frosts have shriveled them on the vine, upping their sugar content. They are delicious served well-chilled. One of my favorites comes from Chelan, Washington and is called Vin du Lac. It runs about thirty dollars a bottle, but it is well worth it.