Many wines suit Thanksgiving Day dishes

Thanksgiving is one of my favorite times of the year. Fall has just presented us with an explosion of colors as the trees go through their annual ritual; cheers radiate from college stadiums as fans root on their teams; and people are lighting their fireplaces for the first time this season, the crackling of the logs bringing back fond memories of years gone by.

With Thanksgiving dinner always comes the question of what wines to serve with the meal. Whether you’re cooking a classic turkey, spiral-cut ham or a novelty item such as turducken, choosing wine for your festivities should be as easy.

Choosing these wines is complicated by the diverse flavors coming at you like an express train. The turkey dressing is loaded with spices. The ham is salty. Yams are syrupy sweet. The appetizers and side dishes are all over the map, leaving the host in quite a quandary.

MEDIUM BODY REDS

Deep, earthy flavors like wood smoke, garlic or mushrooms give turkey a savory mellow richness. If your turkey is smoked or infused with herbs, look for wines that express similar flavors. A fruity, light- to medium-bodied red wine with modest tannins will work here.

2005 Otis Kenyon, Matchless Red Table Wine, Walla Walla Valley, Washington, $26, 290 cases. Here’s a light, delicate red with silky tannins and a long aftertaste of cherries, berries and herbs. This will pair well with a host of foods; 87/87.

RIESLINGS

A Riesling similar to a German sptlese has the rich fruit flavors and crisp acidity to match those creamy sauces (think the inevitable green bean casserole) and buttery mashed potatoes, as well as a salty ham.

2006 Tsillan, Dry Riesling, Estate, Columbia Valley, Washington, $22: The nose has a nice blend of peaches, wet stones and melons. Lemon, lime and apricot fruit is framed by food-friendly acidity. Delicately sweet, this is a perfect wine for the holiday table; 90/90.

TANGY WHITES

Two other white wine choices for the dinner table are viognier and Gewrztraminer; however, these wines are notoriously low in acidity. Ask your retailer for a version that has a tangy, acidic backbone. The bold flavors of these wines will not be buried under the layers of herbs and spices from the food dishes.

2007 Maurice, Viognier, Columbia Valley, Washington, $25: Viognier does very well in Washington, and this is a prime example. Honeysuckle and peaches underscore the wine. Displaying excellent depth, this crisp, flavorful offering has an endless finish; 91/92.

PINOT NOIR

Many enophiles consider it sacrilege if pinot noir is not on hand. Look for a light, fresh and fruity wine that displays plums, strawberries, cherries, and raspberries.

2006 Cooper Mountain, Pinot Noir, Mountain Terroir, Willamette Valley, Oregon, $45, 110 cases: For fans of Oregon pinot on the elegant side, this medium-bodied wine is just the ticket. Aromas of red cherries, earth and vanilla continue to the palate. Bright acids and silky tannins make it hard to leave this one in the cellar; 91/91.

ROS

Don’t forget the rosé. This charming pink wine (much drier than syrupy white zinfandel) is crisp, light and fruity. Be sure to serve it slightly chilled.

2007 Rulo, Rosé, Walla Walla Valley, Washington, $15: A rosé of syrah, this medium-bodied wine presents strawberry and sand plum aromas and flavors, with a long, lovely finish. Good value; 90/92.

WINE EVENTS