Rock band manager's second act as Glen Ellen vintner
There's a celebrity theme happening at B.R. Cohn Winery, perched on an olive tree-carpeted hill above Sonoma Highway in Glen Ellen. Owner Bruce Cohn has been the manager for multiplatinum artists the Doobie Brothers since the band's inception in 1969, and proof is displayed in the multitude of framed albums, photos and rock paraphernalia lining the tasting room walls.
Cohn's dog, Moose, a 10-year-old Lab-English bulldog mix, is another star of sorts. His silver-muzzled black mug has been published in tourism books, he has his own line of dog biscuits and boasts an eponymous wine with a portion of sales proceeds benefiting animal shelters. The friendly beast is a near-permanent, snoring fixture in the corner of the tasting room.
Yet for the rub-with-fame potential, B.R. Cohn is a laid-back experience, entirely relaxed and welcoming as cheerful staff flitted from guest to guest along the crowded mahogany bar on a recent Sunday afternoon. From the building's comfortable Cape Cod-style architecture, with a white facade accented with black shutters, a porch and rosebushes, everything here suggests, "Stay awhile, enjoy."
A former dairy, the land was purchased by Cohn in 1974 and named Olive Hill Estate Vineyard for its centerpiece 140-year-old French Picholine grove. After selling grapes to other wineries, Cohn opened B.R. Cohn Winery at Olive Hill in 1984, producing wine, olive oil and vinegar.
The vibe: Sleek wood dominates, in an L-shaped bar backed by wine racks, plus bookshelves lined with logo clothing and a few novelties like plush wineglass slippers. Emphasis is thoroughly on the tasting, with the gift shop housed in a separate building across a prettily landscaped patio and pathway. It helps to like music at varying noise levels, which on our visit ranged from loud modern dance pop to soft '70s classics.
The team: Though he wasn't in the house for our visit, Cohn remains hands-on, often greeting visitors and sharing rock 'n' roll stories, our tasting guide said. The winemaker for the family-owned winery is Tom Montgomery, who joined operations in 2004 after positions with Napa Cellars, Cosentino and Conn Creek.
The wines: Vineyards total 90 acres, with 61 acres planted in mostly Cabernet Sauvignon, plus smaller blocks of Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, Malbec, Petite Syrah, Pinot Noir and Zinfandel. Chardonnay and Syrah are produced in Carneros, with other grapes contracted from Robert Hall in Paso Robles, such as the Grenache, Mourvedre and Cinsault that supplement the 2007 Syrah Rosé.
A $10 fee earns four ample tastings from a list of 15 wines, including 2005 Olive Hill Estate Cabernet Sauvignon. The $10 is credited to any bottle purchase, meaning that with a special on rosé, we snagged a bottle for just $2.60 more.
The experience: Low-key but engaging and informative. Our guide tapped into our covetous gene by telling us that many of the wines are available only in the tasting room or via the wine club, pleasantly pointing out the six-bottle limit on the 2006 Moose's Red, and noting the small (270 case) production of the 2005 Sonoma Valley Port. He also offered complimentary tastings of his favorites.
The extras: Complimentary olive oil tastings are available in the gift shop. If you have children in tow, there are several patios for stretching, stuffed toy versions of Moose offered for sale and the charms of Moose himself. A tour and tasting, by appointment only, costs $15.
Nearby: Imagery Estate Winery (14335 Sonoma Highway, Glen Ellen, 707-935-4500); Arrowood Vineyard & Winery, 14347 Sonoma Highway, Glen Ellen, 707-935-2600); Valley of the Moon Winery, 777 Madrone Road, Glen Ellen, 707-996-6941).
B.R. Cohn Winery
15000 Sonoma Highway, Glen Ellen
(707) 938-4064, brcohn.com
Open 10 a.m.-5 p.m. daily
Rating: THREE STARS