Wine Pick: 2005 Basciano Chianti Rufina $13

Chianti is the most recognizable wine from Italy. Even, fiaschi, those fat little straw-covered bottles originally used for Chianti (they are now out of fashion) are still as much a symbol of Italy as they are for the wine they hold.

Chianti was a place long before it also was a wine. The Chianti area is in the northeastern corner of the region of Tuscany, tucked in between the cities of Florence and Siena. At least this is the original or classic Chianti area, which traditionally produces the best versions of the wine. A black rooster depicted on the neck of the bottle often identifies wines from here. But there are other areas or zones (eight in all) that are entitled to the brand.

From my experience, most of these zones freeload on the prestige of the classico wines. But one of them, called Chianti Rufina, which is one of the smallest and most obscure of the zones, produces wines that rival the quality of the classicos. The wines from there can be rich and complex and are capable of aging as long as any wine in Italy. There are only a handful of producers in Rufina and one of them is Fattoria di Basciano.

For decades this small family-owned winery has been quietly making some of the most reliable wines in Tuscany. There are two levels of wines at Basciano. One is made from estate-grown grapes and the other from purchased grapes. The wine featured today is from the latter, which explains why it is so reasonably priced.

I liked the rich, fruit-drenched aromas and flavors of the wine, which bring to mind dark cherries and red berries. I also was impressed with the complexity of the wine. Good wines will offer layers of different flavors and aromas and this wine delivers. The wine will work fine on the Thanksgiving table (though not with breast meat) or pretty much with any dish that calls for red wine. To find the wine, contact Grape Expectations at: 206 763-4632.

-- Richard Kinssies