Wine, etc.: Colome wines impressive, well made
Donald Hess is truly a citizen of the world.
A resident of Switzerland, his company - Fine Wines of the Hess Family - owns The Hess Collection Winery in Napa Valley, Peter Lehmann Wines of the Barossa in Australia, Glen Carlou Winery in Paarl, South Africa, Artezin in California, and Bodega Colome in Salta Province, Argentina. Amazingly Mr. Hess visits each of his wineries at least four times a year, which must do wonders for his frequent flyer accounts.
Among the many wine professionals we have met in our business, he is one of the classiest and most knowledgeable. Born in Bern, Switzerland, he was trained as a ninth-generation brewmaster.Eventually, he extended his family's business to making wine with a passion for using only natural products from mountainous regions. His first stop was Mount Veeder in the Napa Valley where he established the Hess name in the late 1970s.
He's come a long way since then.
We had the opportunity to meet with Mr. Hess recently and to learn about his Bodega Colome venture. He says he avoided the competitive Mendoza area of the country but instead found this old winery in the Calchaqui valley in northwest Argentina in 2001. The farm was in such bad condition that the local mayor came to offer his condolences. He would later return with his congratulations.
Bodega Colome has operated as a winery in Argentina since 1831 and growers still farm some of the original pre-phylloxera malbec and cabernet sauvignon grapes, which were imported from Bordeaux and planted in 1854 on their original roots. All of their vineyards are located between 5,500 and 9,800 feet above sea level, and are touted as the highest vineyards in the world.
The Colome wines are very impressive, and markedly different from some other Argentine wines. They are very well made, clean and without the off-putting flavors and rough edges that afflict some other Argentinean wines we have encountered. Following are our impressions:
Colome Torrontes Alto Valle Calchaqui 2008 ($13.50). The signature white grape variety from Argentina, one of our favorites this summer, is a cross between the mission grapes of Spain and the muscat of Alexandria grape variety. This wine has an amazing floral nose reminiscent of a gewurztraminer and muscat melange. Honeysuckle and citrus flavors and good acidity ought to make this a prime candidate for the rapidly approaching Thanksgiving feast.
Colome Malbec Estate 2006 ($27). The blend is 85 percent malbec, 8 percent tannat and 7 percent cabernet sauvignon. This wine is a real treat that demands a well-marbled cut of beef to make the perfect match in the mouth. Lovely coffee, mocha and cherry nose with an elegant presence in the mouth. Blackberry and intense spice aromas, it is followed by cassis, cherry and cinnamon flavors with a touch of vanilla and soft tannins.
Colome Malbec Estate 2007 ($27). Made up of 85 percent malbec, 7 percent tannat, 7 percent cabernet sauvignon and 1 percent syrah. This vintage will not be released until March 2009, but promises to be a beauty. Nose, flavors of cassis, violets and black pepper with dusty tannins mark this wine as one to seek out next spring.
Colome Reserva 2005 ($100). An amazing wine made in extremely small quantities from yields of about 1/2-ton per acre from old-vine malbec. This wine exhibits a very clean pure cassis nose with fine tannins, ripe berry flavors and hints of cinnamon and black currants. It is 80 percent malbec, 20 percent cabernet sauvignon and aged in new French oak for 18 months. Reminds us of a super-premium Napa Valley cabernet sauvignon. A great tasting experience!
Burgundies
The best burgundy easily cost more than $75 a bottle, thus pricing out most of us from this market. The wines are outstanding, of course, but hard to justify buying by the case. The devalued dollar hasn't helped ease prices either.
However, there are still some moderately priced burgundies that may not get a lot of attention but manage to deliver burgundian quality. Here are a few we recently found:
Joseph Drouhin Chorey-les-Beaune 2006 ($26). This reasonably priced pinot noir from Burgundy shows off the simple yet elegant flavors of the region. Cherry and raspberry flavors dominate the palate.
Domaine Pierre Morey Bougogne Chardonnay 2006 ($35). We just loved the bright, clean favors of this delicious burgundy from Meursault. Very floral nose with tropical fruit, lychee and almond notes.
Domaine Pierre Morey Monthelie 2006 ($45). Supple, mouth-filling cherry flavors dominate this classy, simple pinot noir. Good structure and balance.
Domaine Faiveley Mercurey 2006 ($26). Deep color and fresh cherry flavors with a hint of spice and oak characterize this rich pinot noir.
Domaine Faiveley Nuit-Saint-Georges 2006 ($60). This village produces some of the best moderately priced red burgundies. It has simple yet elegnt berry flavors, easy tannins and forest floor aromas.