Wine and Spirits / Expert winemakers since 1557

By Daniel Rogov  2008-12-10 14:17:36

The Allegrini family has been vintners in the Veneto region since the 16th century, and it was probably Allegrino Allegrini who first made wine on the family estates in 1557. One of the family's major accomplishments was in acquiring some of the finest vineyards in the region. It was only in the 1960s that Giovanni Allegrini brought about a revolution in the planting, trellising, harvesting and winemaking processes that made the winery one of the rising stars on the Italian wine scene. Today with his children, Marilisa and Franco, in charge of the family estates and now producing wines not only in Veneto but in Tuscany, the winery has firmly established itself as one of the best in Italy.

Wines in three series from Allegrini are now available in Israel: those from the exciting Poggio al Tesoro estate, which is located in the Bolgheri region of Tuscany; those that carry the Allegrini name and range from the merely excellent to the superb, and those from Corte Giara. What surprises many is that despite their international reputation, the family-owned wineries continue to produce only about 400,000 bottles annually. The Allegrini wines are widely available at better wine shops but should they prove difficult to find, phone the importer, Chevrat HaKerem at (03) 962-7070 to locate the store nearest you.  Advertisement
 

Poggio al Tesoro, Sondraria, Bolgheri, Tuscany, 2005: A Bordeaux blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc (65%, 25% and 10% respectively), but with a distinct hint of the Bolgheri terroir with its blackberry, herbal and rose petal notes. Oak aged for 18 months but showing gentle wood influences. Round and soft, with caressing tannins and a hint of licorice leading to a long and generous finish. Approachable now but best from 2010-2018, perhaps longer. NIS 198. Score 93.

Poggio al Tesoro, Solosole, Bolgheri, Tuscany, 2007: A medium-bodied white, made entirely from Vermentino grapes and showing lively golden straw colored, with clean floral, apricot and apple fruits on a lightly creamy background. Simultaneously refreshing and complex, with flavors that linger nicely. Drink now. NIS 124. Score 89.

Allegrini, La Grola Veronese, Veneto, 2004: Dark garnet to inky purple, medium- to full-bodied, with a fine balance of tannins, wood and fruit flavors. Reflecting its 16 months in oak with a light spicy overlay, that yielding to generous blackberries, currants, and spices, all on a softly tannic and round background on which hints of bitter-sweet chocolate and spicy fruits make themselves felt nicely on the finish. A blend of 70% Corvina, 15% Rondinella, 10%, Syrah and 5% Sangiovese grapes, those vinified separately and blended several months before bottling. Best from 2009-2013, perhaps longer. NIS 157. Score 92.

Allegrini, Amarone della Valpolicella Classico, Veneto, 2003: A full-bodied classic Amarone blend of Corvina Veronese, Rondinella and Oseleta (80%,15% and 5% respectively), made from the appassimento method - in other words, allowing the grapes to dry for three to four months before pressing. On first attack: a fruit-forward, almost New World wine, but given time in the glass, shows a fine touch of tradition, opening with spring flowers, citrus peel and minerals, which continue on to raisins, plums and berries, all with an intriguing note of bitterness. Long and generous. Drink now-2012, perhaps longer. NIS 462. Score 91.

Allegrini, Palazzo della Torre, Valpolicella Classico Superiore, Veneto, 2004: The third time I have tasted this wine. Developing nicely in the bottle, showing medium- to full-bodied, with still firm tannins integrating nicely and showing good balance between the tannins, wood, acidity and fruit. Opens with aromas and flavors of plums and mint, which yield to blackcurrants and black cherries and, on the generous finish, a mouthful of bitter-sweet chocolate. Look as well for a light but appealing note of oxidation here, the kind typical to Amarone. Best from 2009-2013, perhaps longer. NIS 142. Score 90.

Allegrini, Soave Classico, Veneto, 2006: An unoaked blend of 80% Garganega and 20% Chardonnay. Bright gold in color, opens with an almost honeyed floral nose, opens on the palate to reveal grapefruit, peach and lemon notes with hints of minerals. Rich and rewarding. Drink now. NIS 79. Score 88.

Allegrini, Valpolicella Classico, Veneto, 2006: Ruby to garnet in color, showing red plums, raspberries and a pleasing hint of bitter herbs on the generous finish. A medium-bodied blend of Corvina Veronese, Rondinella and Molinary grapes (65%, 30% and 5% respectively). Soft, round and nicely balanced, an easy to drink wine. Drink now. NIS 80. Score 87.

Allegrini, Valpolicella, Veneto, 2007: Medium-dark ruby in color, a blend of Corvina Veronese, Rondinella and Molinary grapes, a light- to medium-bodied red with soft tannins and appealing berry and cherry fruits. Easy to drink. Drink now. NIS 53. Score 87.

Allegrini, Ripasso della Valpolicella Superiore, Corte Giara, Veneto, 2006: Medium-bodied, with soft tannins and showing berries, wild flowers and herbs that yield to hints of minerals and licorice. On the moderately long finish: an appealing hint of dark chocolate. Near-elegant. Drink now-2010. NIS 84. Score 87.

Allegrini, Pinot Grigio delle Venezie, Corte Giara, Veneto, 2007: Medium-bodied, light golden straw in color, with appealing aromas and flavors of tropical fruits, citrus and minerals. Not complex but with fine acidity to keep the wine lively and refreshing. Drink now. NIS 53. Score 8.

Allegrini, Soave, Corte Giara, Veneto, 2007: Fresh and refreshing, with white peach, grapefruit and lemon peel notes supported nicely by fresh acidity, notes of spring flowers and minerals. Not complex but very pleasant indeed. Drink now. NIS 47. Score 86.

Allegrini, Amarone della Valpolicella, Corte Giara, Veneto, 2004: The traditional Veneto blend of Corvina, Rondinella and Molinary grapes that dried for three months before pressing but a fully New-World wine, lacking the depth and wanted bitter notes of true Amarone. Medium-bodied, with plum and berry fruits a soft, easy to drink and quite pleasant but not at all complex wine. Drink now-2010. NIS 181. Score 85.

Allegrini, Chardonnay delle Venezie, Veneto, 2007: Medium-bodied, light golden straw in color, with subdued citrus and tropical fruits that fail to make themselves adequately felt. Lacks the acidity to keep it lively. Drink now. NIS 48. Score 82. 


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