Sonoma-Cutrer produces quality wines
Many times readers ask me where to find a specific wine. They go on to describe the experience they have with a precise vintage of an offering. They then tell me that the shop where they bought the wine no longer carries that vintage. Some seem absolutely stunned and shocked when I tell them they will probably not find any more of that wine and need to try the next vintage.
Wines are created in limited quantities. When a vintage is sold out, it is gone forever. Have you noticed that many quality wines are available only in restaurants and other quality wines are available just in wine shops? There just isn't enough created to put into both wine shops and restaurants. In many cases, there isn't even enough created to put one case of the wine into each community in Louisiana.
I stopped to visit with some friends in Las Vegas on my way to tour some Sonoma wineries this year. I had a very nice dinner at a good restaurant and was surprised to see a Sonoma-Cutrer pinot noir on the wine list. I just had to try it, even though I knew I was scheduled to visit the winery in just a few days. I was quite impressed with the wine.
My first impression of the winery was just how big it is. I have known Sonoma-Cutrer to focus more on quality and not quantity. They have a very limited set of varietals with which they work — just the Burgundian grapes, chardonnay and pinot noir.
The parking lot was designed to hold hundreds of vehicles, which I thought was strange for a winery that does not open its doors to the general public. Jim Caudill, the public relations person for Sonoma-Cutrer, pulled up in the parking lot the same time I did and walked with me to the winery. There I was introduced to Donna Bernheim, the director of hospitality. They acted as my hosts and guides for the day.
Jim asked in advance what I was most interested in, and I told him I would like to focus on the clonal selections and soil structures of the different vineyards on the property. Donna and Jim brought one of the large golf carts out of the winery, and we were off to see the different vines and soils of the estate.
Donna provided me with a mapping of the plots of the clones and showed me how to read the legend of the maps and the tags on the rows of vines. We stopped many times to view the beautiful scenery and learn more about the vines. We tasted the grapes and remarked on the size and sweetness of the berries. The trellising techniques were noted and discussed.
The view from the tops of the hills was breathtaking. Straight rows of vines ran both east-west and north-south. Well-manicured paths marked the boundaries of the plots of vines. The magnificence of the buildings on the estate told tales of thoughtful architectural planning and estate management.
With the gorgeous scenery firmly in mind along with the flavors of the grapes from different clones, we headed back to the winery.
Jim went to set up a tasting for us, while Donna took me on a tour of the inner workings of the winery. The facility was much bigger than I expected. Rows of destemmers and crushers were being cleaned and worked on for the crush that was to take place in a day or two.
Barrels were being cleaned and sanitized. Others were being examined, and those that passed were put in line for cleaning. Those that needed extra work were being fixed so every drop of juice would be safe and produce exquisite wine.
We emerged from the winery and found Jim in the very comfortable and elegant room he set up for tasting. Sonoma-Cutrer produces a very limited number of wines. All three of their chardonnays and both of their pinot noirs were laid out for us to explore.
We were joined by two unexpected people: the winemaker at Sonoma-Cutrer, Terry Adams, and the director of wines for Brown-Forman, Dennis Martin. Sonoma-Cutrer is owned by the Brown-Forman company. Brown-Forman is located in Lexington, Ky., and has locations around the world including wine interests in California, Italy, France, South America and Australia.
Terry offered insights to vine selections and his philosophy of wine making. Quality and not quantity is the basis for his winemaking.
Three current vintages of chardonnay were presented. Notes of citrus, melon, apple, pear and tropical fruit were accented by earthy mineral and stone in the Sonoma-Cutrer Sonoma Coast Chardonnay. This wine will pair well with a grilled shrimp and chicken medley.
The labels look similar on all of the Chardonnay offerings of the winery, but the wines are definitely different. Yeasty notes are found throughout the Sonoma-Cutrer Les Pierres Chardonnay. The expected apple and lemon traits are joined by the impressions of bread crust. The mineral traits of the soil also show well in this offering. Duck breast smothered with sautéed onions and mushrooms will pair well with this wine.
The Cutrer is created to bring out floral aromas that give way to spice and nuts in the bouquet. The cinnamon notes from the aroma find themselves playing well with the apple impressions in the flavor. Slightly spiced shellfish is a perfect match.
The wines of Sonoma-Cutrer may be hard to find on the shelves of you local wine shop. Their niche is in restaurants. Please ask your local retailer if they have any in stock but don't be disappointed if they don't. Make sure you order a bottle of the Sonoma-Cutrer with your next meal. Be sure not to pass up one of the very rare pinot noir offerings from this excellent winery—if the restaurant has one.