Wine-ology: Sparkling wines run gamut of identities

It's the time of year for my annual column on champagne and other sparkling wines. And the first point I always make to readers and people who attend my wine appreciation classes is that champagne falls under the broader category of sparkling wines. Although you may be drinking a sparkling wine, it may not be champagne.

Real champagne can only come from the Champagne region of France. However, sparkling wine is made in each of the major wine-producing countries and are identified by these names: Spumante (Italy); Cava (Spain); Sekt (Germany); and Crémant (France, when the origin is not the Champagne region).

When selecting French champagne, be aware that the terminology used to describe the level of dryness can be confusing. Particularly the use of the term "extra dry," which, in the lingo of the champagne world, actually means a small amount of sweetness is detectable. Here are the most common terms:

- A champagne that is extremely dry, with no sweetness at all, is called "brut nature" or "extra brut" (contains zero to 6 grams of residual sugar per liter).

- If it has normal dryness — that is, sweetness is not detectable by most people — it is identified as "brut."

- When just a hint of sweetness is detectable by the average palate, the champagne is "extra dry."

- A champagne with an average level of sweetness that is clearly evident and obvious to the average palate is called "sec."

- Champagne that is sweet to the level of above average, almost like a dessert wine, is identified as "demi-sec."

- A champagne that is extremely sweet, named "doux," contains at least 50 grams of residual sugar per liter.

California has many outstanding sparkling wine producers. Among them are Gloria Ferrer, Piper Sonoma, Roederer, Schramsberg, Domaine Carneros, Domaine Chandon, Iron Horse, Sofia by Coppola, and Mumm Napa.

Prices vary depending on quantity and the method used to make the wine.

The more expensive method is called Methode Champenoise, which imitates the time-consuming process used in France. It is widely acknowledged to be the only way to produce the finest and most complex champagnes. Look for the words "Methode Champenoise" on the label of these sparkling wines.

Also keep in mind that the majority of champagnes and sparkling wines are made by blending wines from more than one vintage.

These are called nonvintage wines and are generally less expensive than those made from a single vintage.