Healdsburg's Foppiano Vineyards
Long before the high-theater, high-flash marketing fairy waved her wand over Northern California tasting rooms, there was Foppiano Vineyards, established in 1896 on 200 acres in the Russian River Valley.
The Healdsburg property, which touts itself as Sonoma County's oldest continuously owned family winery, keeps things humble with a small, white clapboard house as its tasting facility. Rather than a grand entry, visitors climb a rough wood porch held sentry by a 140-year-old fig tree. The only geegaw is a brick-red Northwestern Pacific caboose fronting a small, picnic table-lined rose garden, displayed in reminiscence of the area's early shipping heritage.
Yet as our tasting guide explained with genuine enthusiasm, no glitz is needed, for the drama is in the Foppiano story itself. As survivors of Prohibition, the Foppiano family refused to tear out their grapes. Instead, they capitalized on the Volstead Act, which allowed individuals to make 200 gallons of homemade wine, and shipped their precious fruit to home winemakers across the country.
When the Feds raided in 1926, agents forced the family to open the tank valves, and watched as 100,000 gallons of the 1918 vintage ran red down the creek in front of the winery. So the story goes, people came from miles around with cups, mugs and jars, or drank straight from the stream.
The vibe: Was it a clever coincidence that as the guide regaled us, Prince's "Purple Rain" played in the background? The cozy wood-trimmed room, with space for perhaps a half-dozen at the bar, showcases a wall lined with medals and ribbons, nostalgic black-and-white family photographs, and a personal-size refrigerator holding assorted meats and cheeses for sale. Nothing fancy, though a tidy array of wine-themed jewelry, knickknacks, dressings and Foppiano Petite Sirah marinara sauce gently encourages impulse buys.
The team: Founder Giovanni Foppiano, a native of Genoa, Italy, supposedly emigrated from Italy to San Francisco in 1864, walking across the isthmus of Panama en route. Ending up in Healdsburg, he purchased a working winery called Riverside Farm, where his vineyards are today. Today, fifth-generation descendant Paul Foppiano is vineyard manager, while president Louis J. Foppiano celebrated his 98th birthday last month. The winemaker is Natalie West, an alum of Ferrari-Carano, J Vineyards & Winery, Clos LaChance, Peterson Winery and Montana Wines of New Zealand.
The wines: Originally known for jug wines from the 1940s, the winery now produces a Riverside label and the Foppiano Vineyards brand, which is exclusively red wines. Most grapes are estate grown literally steps from the tasting room, including the signature Petite Sirah, plus Pinot Noir, Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay.
The experience: Tastings of six wines are complimentary - "no Napa velvet ropes," our guide joked. In addition, three winery-exclusive library and reserve tastes are offered for $5, including a 1990 Petite Sirah. A $4 White Zin 1.5-liter special was promoted as eagerly as the $59.95 Petite Sirah: "We're not paying for the land anymore, so we don't have new-kid-on-the-block prices.' "
Nearby: Christopher Creek (641 Limerick Lane, Healdsburg; 707-433-2001, christophercreek.com); J Vineyards & Winery (11447 Old Redwood Highway, Healdsburg; 707-431-3646, jwine.com); Alderbrook Vineyards & Winery (2306 Magnolia Drive, Healdsburg; 707-433-5987, alderbrook.com).
Foppiano Vineyards
12707 Old Redwood Highway, Healdsburg
(707) 433-7272, foppiano.com
Open 10 a.m.-4:30 p.m. daily
Rating: TWO AND A HALF STARS
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RATING KEY
Four Stars: Extraordinary,
Three Stars: Excellent
Two Stars: Good
One Star: Fair
Box: Poor