Choose a price, then a wine
Our wine columnist offers the season's best gifts in a bottle.
The only way you can go wrong giving wine is to mistake quality with price. No matter how luscious a wine is, if it's the wrong price for the giftee, it's the wrong gift.
First thing you have to do is decide the price range, just as if you were considering a necktie or a diamond ring. Then choose the wine. Keep in mind that, these days, it's easy for gift-receivers to Google what you've given them.
WINES UNDER $20
• 2006 Whitehaven Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough, New Zealand: Crisp, almost spritzy, mouth-watering gooseberry aromas and flavors, medium body, $18. This is risky in two ways. It's under $20 and it's in a screwcap bottle. Give it only to a friend who knows enough about wine to realize that it's also incredibly delicious.
• 2005 Bodega Norton Privada, Lujan de Cuyo, Mendoza, Argentina (malbec, merlot, cabernet sauvignon): Aromas and flavors of anise and violets, ripe tannins, smooth, $16. Again, risky because under $20. It's the best bargain wine I tasted all year.
$20-$29
• 2007 Doña Paula Estate Malbec, Luján de Cuyo, Argentina: Hint of oak, mulberry and mocha flavors, very smooth, deeply fruity, $21. Hot new estate in the Andes.
• 2006 MacMurray Ranch Pinot Gris, Sonoma Coast: Hint of oak; rich, ripe apricot flavors; spicy; white grapefruit finish, $20. It's grown on land bought from the actor Fred MacMurray.
• 2006 Pazo Barrantes Albariño, Riás Baixas: Ripe peaches and vanilla; crisp, almost spritzy; full body, $23. Good for Spanish-language giftees. This is very well respected in the Iberian Peninsula.
• 2006 Renato Ratti Nebbiolo d'Alba Ochetti, DOC: Aromatic, with scents of maraschino cherries; crisp but very smooth; lean and fruity, $23. A bit exotic; great steak wine.
• 2007 Howard Park Riesling, Great Southern, Australia: Delicate and light, with floral aromas and white grapefruit flavors, $25. Unusual riesling from Oz.
• 2006 Staete Landt Pinot Noir, Marlborough, New Zealand: Crisp and lean, with intense tart cherry fruit, hint of tannin, $29. New Zealand pinots are the latest hot thing.
• 2006 Yangarra ''Cadenzia'' (grenache, shiraz, mourvedre grapes), McLaren Vale, Australia: Hint of oak, very rich black cherry and mocha flavors, smooth, ripe tannins, $26. Made of the ``holy trinity'' of red grapes, it's very user-friendly.
$30 TO $50
• 2001 Fonseca Periquita Classico, Portugal (castelao grape): Aromas and flavors of violets, black plums and black coffee, smooth, long finish, $30. A modern version of an old standard -- your abuelo will remember it fondly.
• 2005 Stonestreet ''Upper Barn'' Chardonnay, Alexander Valley: Aromas of oak and ripe peaches; lush flavors of peaches and butter, with soft acids and creamy body, $40. Safest wine you can gift. Big, fat, expensive California chard.
• 2004 Bonny Doon Le Cigare Volant, Calif. (50 percent grenache, 24 percent mourvèdre, 22 percent syrah, 3 percent carignane, 1 percent cinsault): Intense flavors of black plums, black cherries and anise; full-bodied, sturdy and full-flavored, but with soft tannins and acids, $30. Great wine from the West Coast's mad genius, Randall Grahm.
• 2007 Two Hands ''Brave Faces'' Shiraz Grenache Mataro, Barossa Valley, Australia: Fresh red berry aromas; rich raspberry flavors; ripe and smooth, $36. A pleasing red wine for people who only drink white wine.
• 2005 Maison Bouachon Chateauneuf-du-Pape ``La Tiare du Pape,'' AOC (60 percent grenache, 30 percent syrah, 7 percent mourvèdre and 3 percent counoise, terret noir, muscardin and vaccarèse): Black plums and mocha; full body; soft tannins and acids, $39. Complex, goes with complex dishes like beef burgundy.
$50 TO $100
• 2005 Cellar Vall Llach, DOQ Priorato: Deep blue velvet in color, with big, rich but not tannic flavors of black plums and mocha; smooth, opulent, $85. The Priorato, 60 miles southeast of Barcelona, is one of Spain's hot areas.
• Nonvintage Veuve Clicquot Brut Champagne, Reims, 12 percent: Citrus, yeast and orange flavors; lots of bubbles, $56. Gotta have a bubbly; this is a good one.
• 2004 Renato Ratti Barolo Marcenasco, DOCG: Muscular black cherry and bitter mocha flavors; big, ripe tannin; long finish, $56. Powerful. Better with five more years of age.
• 2004 Vinoptima Reserve Gewürztraminer, Ormond, New Zealand: Slightly off-dry, crisp, with intense lychee flavors and long finish, $54. Know what this goes with? Roast pig. No kidding.
• 2004 M. Chapoutier Hermitage ``Chante-Alouette'' (marsanne): Powerful aromas and flavors of honey, ginger and other Asian spices; very rich; ripe fruit; intense and long-lasting, $90. A very high-priced white wine. Give it to your boss.
OVER $100
• 2003 Fattoria dei Barbi Brunello di Montalcino ``Vigna dei Fiore,'' DOC: Deep mulberry and lavender aromas and flavors; smooth and opulent; ripe tannins; crisp acids, $120. Chianti on steroids, this is a wine for Christmas goose or Yorkshire Pudding.
• 2004 M. Chapoutier Hermitage ``Monier de la Sizeranne'' (syrah): Aromas of tar and roses, powerful black plum and mocha flavors, ripe tannins, medium body, long finish, $115. Give this to your boss if you like him/her. The label is also in braille.
HOLIDAY BEER
• Chocolate Stout (Rogue Brewery, Portland, Ore.; 6 percent alcohol, $6.29 a 22-ounce bottle): Brewed from rolled oats, with ''natural chocolate flavors.'' This is as thick as Hershey's chocolate syrup, sweet-tart and creamy and, with a scoop of Reese's Peanut Butter Cup ice cream, makes a great adult float.
• Midas Touch Handcrafted Ancient Ale (Dogfish Head; 9 percent alcohol, $2.59 a 12-ounce bottle): With barley, honey, white muscat grapes and saffron, a replica of a brew buried with an ancient ruler of Phrygia in Central Turkey on whom the King Midas fable is based. Bone dry, with honey and orange flavors and prickly carbonation. Very sophisticated.