Tasmanian wine industry matures
QUITE a few years ago, I had the chance to thoroughly check out the state of Tasmania's wine industry.
What struck me most was that, among the expected diamonds, there was far too much rust.
Too many small producers had planted unsuitable varieties or were not maintaining vineyards properly. Those using contract-making tended to have better results than those going it alone. It was a surprise, as expectations, and reputation, were high.
Having just had the chance to repeat the visit, even more extensively and tasting many hundreds of wines, it was obvious there are far more diamonds and far less rust.
Now the Tasmanian industry has matured, most surprising of all was the longevity of many of the wines.
Anyone who thinks that pinot noir cannot age well in Australia needs to visit Tasmania as soon as possible.
In general terms, the stars are the sparkling wines and pinot noir. Riesling is a whisker behind.
The jury is out on chardonnay though – it has certainly not reached the predicted heights. Some brave souls persist with cabernet when, with very few exceptions, it and its Bordeaux brethren are simply outclassed vintage after vintage by a string of glorious pinots.
The dark horse is gewurztraminer. We saw an amazing number of really classy gewurz – if only it had more of a following.
There is strong evidence to suggest that Tasmania provides the best fruit in the world for fizz, outside Champagne itself. Certainly, the larger sparkling makers from the mainland have identified this and regularly source fruit here for their best wines.
For local fizz, try Meadowbank's Mardi, Freycinet's Radenti, Moorilla, Lubiana, Jansz, Chromy, Bay of Fires and Lake Barrington.
For table wine, pinot noir excels and there are some stunning wines being made. Many of these are in such small quantities that they often don't make the mainland but it would be worth either contacting the wineries direct or hassling your retailer to have them chase these wines.
Many deserve a wide audience.
Here are a sample worth trying. Prices are, at best, approximate.
* Derwent Estate 2006 ($29)
* Clemens Hill 2006 ($35) is good but the Reserve 2006 ($60) was wonderfully complex and concentrated
* Frogmore Creek Reserve 2005 ($60) and watch for the equally stunning 2007 down the track
* Panorama 2005 ($39) offers a burlier style – they also have a reasonable 2003 Reserve ($180) and plans afoot for a super reserve at $500
* Moorilla 2007 ($40)
* Lubiana 2006 ($45)
* Springvale 2005
* Dalrymple 2007 ($55 but not yet released)
* Chromy Zdar 2005 ($48)
* Goaty Hill 2007 ($28)
* Tamar Ridge had several but the Pirie Sigma 2005 ($65) was my pick
* Barringwood Park Mill Block 2007 ($35)
* Pooley Coal River 2005
* Bundaleera 2007 ($28)
* Humbug Reach 2006 ($35)
* Holyman 2007 ($45)
* Three Wishes 2007 ($35)