Off the shelf

NV PromisQous California Red Table Wine ($11)

The hook: Sweetish, fresh and fruity wine seeking relationship with meaty dish.

The details: This food-friendly Santa Rosa wine is a "daring dalliance," according to the makers, of Zinfandel, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Petite Sirah. But the blend isn't so much the seducer as the name and label, which promotes a "wanton disregard for convention," and warns that drinking it "may result in an intense sensory experience." Despite the gimmick, it turned out to be pretty solid - lighter than what you would expect from all those big reds - and it paired nicely with a sweet pork sandwich we had for lunch. From the PQ folks: "Practice safe sipping."