Boxing Day wines: Wines for the day after Christmas
WASHINGTON – Ironically, Boxing Day, which is celebrated on Dec. 26 in Great Britain and other former British colonies -- namely Canada, New Zealand and Australia -- has nothing to do with the pugilistic version of the sport. Traditionally, it was a day when the "higher classes" gave gifts to the "lower classes" because on or before Christmas, the working class was so busy serving the upper class that there was no time for employers to present their gifts to the lower class until the next day. It became known as Boxing Day since the gifts of cash, food, clothing and other goods were placed into boxes for easier transportation home.
Today, the practice has expanded to simply tipping people who have provided services throughout the year (mail carriers, doormen, stylists and housekeepers to name a few) or can involve the elaborate practice of the upper class serving the servers for a day -- a bit of role reversal if you will.
But we don't have such a tradition here in Great Britain's former largest holding -- which is too bad because I could get used to my kids serving me for just one day each year. For some reason, it never caught on. But I propose we change that. Not with the traditional version -- after all, we're Americans and we march to our own multiethnic drummer now -- but with a new one.
I propose that we drink box wines on Boxing Day! Now before you hang me from the highest grapevine, hear me out. First, by the time the holidays roll around, everyone is exhausted. The day after Christmas barely gives anyone time to catch his or her breath before New Year's Eve descends upon us like an aftershock, so we need wines that are easy and convenient to enjoy. Second, the quality of wines that now come in boxed in, well, boxes, is remarkably good. And with the new packaging systems, wine can stay fresh and ready to enjoy for up to three weeks after the wine has been opened. Perfect for serving friends who stop by or relatives who won't leave.
Cindy and I keep a box of white in the refrigerator and a box of red on the counter just to enjoy when we don't feel like opening a whole bottle of wine, but want just a glass to enjoy while we're cooking or writing our column.
Now I know I have an uphill battle. Many of my wine-snob friends were recently put off when they found out I served wine out of a box at my son's bar mitzvah. But hey, everyone was fine with it until the cat was let out of the bag, uhm, er, I mean box, by a fellow guest who was so impressed, he just had to know where he could buy the tasty juice. Once I let him in on the secret, he became the town crier. But I had no reason to be ashamed. The wine was tasty, fresh and straightforward.
So I say we move beyond the petty misconception of judging a wine by its packaging. After all, box wines are easier to transport, open and store. And the economical packaging means I get better wine for my money. Let's give America it's own Boxing Day tradition and celebrate Dec. 26 with wines, well, from a box. I think you'll fine the irony is delicious. Retail prices are approximate.
2007 Vendage Pinot Gris, Lodi, Calif. ($8 for 1 liter)
Vendage Winery (pronounced von-donj) out of Madera, Calif., now produces several popular varietals in eco-friendly Tetra Pak¨ cartons (think juice carton). The packaging is 100 percent recyclable and comes in both liter and half-liter formats. Pretty nose of apples and acacia petals on the nose are joined by flavors of nectarine, peach and citrus notes on a crisp, dry body.
California based Black Box Wines uses a vacuum-sealed bag inside of the box, which keeps the wine fresh for up to four weeks after opening. As wine is poured out of the box, the bag collapses and prevents air from getting into the container and causing oxidation.
2007 Black Box Chardonnay Reserve, Napa Valley, Calif. ($20 for 3 liters)
Produced from selected lots of grapes throughout Napa Valley, it displays aromas of buttered toast, apples and melon. The medium-bodied palate has apple flavors surrounded by toffee yeast. It finishes with balanced acidity that maintains lively flavor notes.
2005 Black Box Cabernet Sauvignon, Paso Robles, Calif. ($20 for 3 liters)
This is an easy drinking wine featuring aromas of blackberry, ripe olives and vanilla. Full flavors of cassis, dark cherry and dark chocolate fill the mouth. Surprisingly firm tannins provide a lengthy finish.
2004 Dtour Macon Chardonnay, Macon-Villages, France ($37 for 3 liters)
Created by three well-known French wine enthusiasts, including famed chef Daniel Boulud, this "bistro wine" actually comes in a tube (but uses the same collapsible bag principle as the Black Box wines). It has lovely notes of apple, melon and toasted brioche on the well-structured frame.