Wine and Spirits / From Italian vines
A short while ago, I attended a tasting of Italian wines from Piedmont, Puglia and Friuli. These excellent wines all scored 90 or above and, to make life even happier, can be purchased at prices competitive to those in the U.K. and the U.S. The wines should be readily available, but if you have any trouble finding them, phone the importer, Hevrat HaKerem, at (03) 962-7070.
Vie de Romans, Friulano Dolce, Friuli, 2006: Made entirely from Tocai Friulano grapes, a subtle and complex wine, showing crisp and clean on the palate with intense aromas and flavors of peaches matched nicely by light hints of lemon and honey and, on the long finish, pineapple notes. Long and generous. Drink now. NIS 180. Score 92. Advertisement
Vie de Romans, Pinot Grigio, Dessimis, Friuli, 2006: A far more complex Pinot Grigio than those to which most of us are accustomed. Deep gold in color, with a fine balance of toasty oak, vanilla, green apple and tropical fruit flavors. A hint of honey on the long finish. Drink now. NIS 185. Score 92.
Vie de Romans, Chardonnay, Friuli, 2006: Reflecting its eight months in French and Hungarian oak with spicy and vanilla notes in fine balance with apples and mango and leading to a long, lively finish. Drink now. NIS 185. Score 91.
Vie de Romans, Sauvignon Blanc, Piere, Friuli, 2006: Bright gold in color, aromatic and packed with flavor. Opens with a note of fresh grapefruit that parts to make way for tropical fruits and appealing herbal-grassy notes. As good a match to veal as to fish and seafood dishes. Drink now. NIS 180. Score 90.
Rocche dei Manzoni, Barolo, Pianpolvere, Soprano Bussia Riserva, 2001: Full-bodied, with silky smooth tannins that caress gently and open to reveal concentrated plum, berry and dried apricot flavors, matched by spices and notes of toasted rye bread. Long and complex. Approachable and enjoyable now but best 20010-2020. NIS 520. Score 95.
Rocche dei Manzoni, Barolo, Vigna Capella, San Stefano Riserva, Piedmont, 1997: Whatever you want in a Barolo. Full-bodied, rich, ripe and concentrated, with velvety smooth tannins and light toasty oak and vanilla notes. On the nose and palate: purple and red plums, wild berries, dark chocolate and a tantalizing note of mint that comes in on the super-long finish. Exquisite. Drink now-2017. NIS 665. Score 95.
Rocche dei Manzoni, Barolo Rocche, Piedmont, 2003: A full-bodied blend made from the grapes of four vineyards. Medium-dark garnet in color, opening with a light medicinal aroma that passes quickly to reveal a generously fruity nose. Full-bodied, with firm tannins and lightly spicy cedar wood, opening to reveal notes of purple plums, blackberries and vanilla. Long, complex and mouth-filling. Approachable now but best 2010-2015. NIS 370. Score 93.
Rocche dei Manzoni, Barolo, Vigna d'la Roul, Piedmont, 2004: Full-bodied, dark garnet in color, showing dusty wood and firm tannins on first attack, those parting to reveal generous ripe plum and berry fruits with overlays of bitter-sweet chocolate. Generous and long. Approachable now but best 2010-2018. NIS 510. Score 93.
Luigi Einaudi, Barolo, Nei Cannubi, Piedmont, 2001: Dark, surprisingly youthful ruby to royal purple in color, a full-bodied, mineral rich wine with gently caressing tannins. On the nose and palate: generous ripe red plums and blueberries, which lead to a long and complex finish. Drinking beautifully now-2014, perhaps longer. NIS 430. Score 94.
Luigi Einaudi, Langhe Einaudi, Piedmont, 2004: A somewhat unusual blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Nebbiolo and Barbera places this wine somewhere between Bordeaux and Piedmont. The result is splendid: a dark and youthful royal purple, which opens with firm tannins that go progressively softer as the wine sits on the palate. Shows intense aromas and flavors of purple plums, currants and blackberries, which are matched very nicely indeed by white pepper and anise notes. Long and mouth-filling. Drink now-2013. NIS 230. Score 93.
Luigi Einaudi, Dogliani, Vigna Tecc, Piedmont, 2006: Made from Dolcetto grapes, but a far, far cry from the light, super-simple reds that are offered in many Piedmont restaurants. Opens with a distinctly grapey nose that yields nicely to plum, blackberry and cassis fruits. Medium-bodied and well-structured with gently mouth-coating tannins. Drink now. NIS 110. Score 90.
Luigi Einaudi, Barbera, Piedmont, 2006: Medium- to full-bodied, reflecting its 16 months in barriques with spicy cedar wood, matched nicely by red and black berries, purple plums, and, on the long finish, a note of licorice. Drink now. NIS 135. Score 90.
Antinori, Torcicoda, Puglia, 2006: If you have never been "turned on" by Primitivo in the past, be sure to try this one. Deep ruby in color, medium- to full-bodied, reflecting its year in barriques with toasty oak and vanilla notes, which are complemented very nicely indeed by black and red berries, chocolate and mint, all with a generous raspberry-rich finish. Velvety smooth and quite long. Very well done. Drink now-2010. NIS 100. Score 91.
Antinori, Maseria, Maime, Puglia, 2005: Oak aged for 14 months, still with almost puckering tannins but already showing fine balance and structure. Dark garnet in color, made entirely from Negromaro grapes and opening to reveal blackberries, ripe plums and orange peel notes, all on a spicy background. Give this one a bit of time. Best 2009-2012. NIS 140. Score 90.