Wine, etc.: Affordable champagne alternatives
As the holidays approach, we will be writing our annual reviews of sparkling wine. More is consumed in the next month than at any time of the year. Even though you may think only the rich can afford champagne, the good news is that there are affordable alternatives.
Consider, for example, prosecco. A popular summer drink in its native Italy, prosecco is often snubbed by serious wine drinkers who wouldn't dare to be caught with a glass in hand. However, in recent years prosecco has found a loyal following that now includes educated wine enthusiasts. If you don't try to compare it to champagne, prosecco is an enjoyable apertif for what it is. Perfect to cool the palate in the summer, we write about it now because it fits a budget for holiday parties.
Prosecco - a grape variety - is grown mostly in the Veneto region of northeast Italy. Those that earn the government's DOC label are called Prosecco di Conegliano-Valdobbiadene, but this is probably more than you need to know. Prosecco is often blended with other grapes like pinot bianco, pinot grigio or chardonnay, but to qualify for the DOC classification, the wine has to be 85 percent prosecco.
Prosecco can be made in two different styles: the more dry frizzante and a spumante. Most of the wines we have tasted are dry. The bubbles come from the charmat process of sparkling-wine making. This process isn't as costly as methode champenois, a winemaking process that is used to produce expensive champagnes.
The attraction of prosecco is that it is considerably lighter than champagne and has less alcohol but still a lot of fizz. That makes them ideal for Sunday brunch or as an aperitif to serve when guests walk in the door. It is not a wine, though, that will carry into a meal where something more complex is needed.
Here are some we have tasted recently:
Riondo Prosecco ($10). Rated 90 points by wine critic Robert Parker Jr., this prosecco is light, crisp with a clean finish and a floral nose. If you want a real treat, try the rose version.
Villa Jolanda Prosecco ($13). Brought to us from Mousieur Touton, this version sports an intriguing pink grapefruit flavor with a touch of peach.
Zonin Special Cuvee Prosecco ($13). Very fruity and aromatic sparkler with apple and almond notes.
Lunetta Prosecco ($11). Meaning "Little Moon" in Italy, this Cavit prosecco has apple and peach notes with a dry, crisp finish.
Caposaldo Prosecco ($15). Aromatic and having fresh apple fruit flavors with good structure and elegance. Very nice.
Bellini cocktail
The original recipe for a Bellini cocktail, first created at Harry's Bar in Venice in 1943, calls for prosecco. It's a delightful aperitif, and a touch of raspberry gives it a pink glow. Peach schnapps can be substituted for the puree, but we like to stick to the original recipe if we can find the peaches:
2/3 cup white peach puree made from fresh, peeled peaches blended in food processor (use yellow peaches if white not available) 1 teaspoon raspberry puree from fresh or frozen berries. 1 bottle chilled Italian Prosecco Place 1 1/2 tablespoons peach puree in the bottom of a champagne flute and add 2 to 3 drops of the raspberry puree. Add sparkling wine and serve.
Chappellet
Chappellet is one of the oldest wineries in Napa Valley, producing respectable wines since 1967. Their vineyards are located high on the eastern slope of the Napa Valley, which the legendary consultant Andre Tchelistcheff recommended. Although hillside wineries are somewhat common in Napa Valley today, Chappellet was the first to take Mr. Tchelistcheff's bold but ultimately wise advice.
We are new to Chappellet's wine but recently we tasted two that we felt were noteworthy.
Chappellet Chardonnay Napa Valley 2006 ($32). A wonderfully expressive nose of lemons, peaches and melons. Delicious in the mouth with a great fruit presence of citrus and ripe tropical fruit, and a nice creamy finish.
Chappellet Merlot Napa Valley 2005 ($32). Intense nose and flavors in this very well crafted merlot. Nice ripe cherry fruit with cherry flavors in the mouth with hints of smoke. A very nice well-balanced wine.
Wine brunch
Bay Ridge Wine & Spirits will hold a champagne brunch, featuring the champagnes from Piper-Heidsieck, at 11:30 a.m. Dec. 13 at Sam's on the Waterfront Cafe.
The cost is $33.95 a person. For reservations call Sam's at 410-263-3600 or Bay Ridge at 410-268-1961.