Measuring the grape by the glass: new wine bars open in Calgary
The floodgates have opened. And rushing through those gates is a wave of red, white, bubbly and sweet wine.
Yes, 2009 is set to become the year of the wine bar in Calgary, with two new wine bars up and running, a third set to open shortly and two wine bar-cafes also in the offing.
A wine bar is a casual place that typically serves wine by the glass or even part-glass as well as by the bottle, along with a menu of lighter foods. The open bottles can be preserved simply by re-corking for short periods or by placing them in high-tech cabinets that replace the air in the bottles with nitrogen or argon gas.
A visit to a wine bar can be a meal with a nicely paired wine, a relaxing social gathering over a good glass of wine, or an evening-ending nightcap. Wine bars may feature the wines of certain regions or countries or from around the world; the food may have the same focus.
One of the two new places is Wine Bar Kensington at 1131 Kensington Rd. N. W. (403-457-1144), located just around the corner from Muse, its parent restaurant.
It's a freshly renovated 44-seat, darkly hued, downstairs space with a long bar top made from pressed sunflower seeds and husks. Formerly the Danube Creperie, it now features about three dozen wines by the 2.5-or five-ounce pour and an additional few dozen by the bottle.
Owner Chris Hurlburt describes the wine selections as "fun"wines, ranging from a crisp Nomade Torrontes from Argentina to a rich, deep and pure Cline Mourvedre from Sonoma.
Chefs Cam Dobranski and Ben Pallett have created a menu of "Modern Free-Style" dishes to go along with the wines. So you'll find bison carpaccio with organic potato salad and sun-dried tomato aioli, or a Berkshire pork belly sandwich.
There are cheese plates and charcuterie selections and, since a crepe pan was left by the former owners, a duck confit crepe with a plum-ginger compote.
A key to any wine bar's success is affordability combined with quality.
At Wine Bar Kensington, most glasses of wine are under $10, and the most expensive dish is $16. Another key is opening hours that fit the market. Wine Bar is open Thursday through Saturday for lunch and daily from 4 p. m. until late. As in, at least 1 a. m.
Over in Victoria Park, the folks at Zia's Enoteca in the ArriVa Tower (425 11th Ave. S. E., 403-984-9429) are following a similar tone.
Owner Sylvie Berti keeps a couple dozen bottles open in a high-tech dispensing cabinet, pouring them by the glass or in two-ounce tasting flights. Her selections are global, with many coming from David Walker's 100 Wines store around the corner.
The food at Zia's is unmistakably Italian, with the robust scent of tomato sauce and caramelizing onions filling the air.
Chef Dennis Berger's food is a simple list of antipasti, salads, pasta and Italian desserts--it ranges from crostini with those caramelized onions or olive-tomato tapenade and penne with shrimp in a tomato-caper sauce to tiramisu and a hazelnut-chocolate torte.
Zia's food prices top out at $13, while glasses of wine range from$9 to $20.
Being in a new building in a newly developing area of town, Zia's has opted for broad opening hours. They have wine and food on the table Monday through Saturday from 11 a. m. to 11 p. m. or later.
Other wine bars around town include the soon-to-open Vin Room in the former Mission Cycle on 4th Street S. W., the addition of a wine component to Kawa, the coffee house on 8th Street S. W., and the development of an evening menu with wine pairings at Manuel Latruwe Belgian Patisserie. More on those as they evolve.
While wandering west of 85th Street S. W. last week, I stopped in at Sweetgrass Market at 873 85th St. S. W. (403-589-5600) and saw that more booths are now filled with vendors.
Island Philippines, a Filipino food shop opened by the husband and wife team of Mary Ann and Ernesto Carlos, brings increasing cultural diversity to the market. Providing more than 200 Pacific island products --from Sky Flake crackers and coconut spread to sweet chili sauce and dried mango--Island Philippines has become an instant destination for the many Filipino residents of the area.
Filling another corner of Sweetgrass is The Produce Pantry, featuring local products such as Broxburn tomatoes and Poplar Grove potatoes as well as fresh international items. The Produce Pantry, run by a consortium of market vendors, fills the gap at Sweetgrass for all those looking for fresh produce.
And in a non-food vein, Venezuelan expat Morella Ferrer has opened GalleriaMwith a collection of arts and crafts from Venezuela and Canada, including jewelry, carvings and tapestries.
Throughout December, Sweetgrass is open daily from 9 a.m., with the exception of Christmas and Boxing Day when the market will be closed. In the New Year, it will revert to Wednesday through Sunday hours.
John Gilchrist reviews restaurants for cBc radio one. his cheap eats Guide to calGary and area restaurants is availaBle