Wine: Catch a big cab from Washington State

The Washington State cabernet sauvignons I remember used to be lighter, more elegant and less fruity than their counterparts in Northern California.

For better or for worse - depending on your tastes - Washington cabs now seem to be totally unrestrained. The grapes are apparently staying on Washington vines longer in a warm climate, producing wines that have converted lots of sugar into lots of alcohol.

Recent Washington wines show plenty of fruit and oak and strong tannins. (Tannins are substances in grapes and wood that can give wine character and structure with aging but can taste harsh and make your mouth pucker when young.)
 
If Washington winemakers' goal was to make a big California cab, they have succeeded. My panel compared five of them and found all five successful in meeting the "big cab" goal. The results of our tasting five Columbia Valley wines follow.

 2005 Gordon Brothers Cabernet Sauvignon, $18.99.

The nose reminded us of raspberry soda, cherries, milk chocolate and dusty dark chocolate. Flavors on the palate mirrored the aroma, with additional tastes of bananas, vanilla and caramel. It's unusual to say a wine had flavors like a banana split - chocolate, vanilla and berries - but the wine was delightful. It ranked first in our tasting.

 2005 Genesis Cabernet Sauvignon, $17.99.

The aroma was reductive at first, meaning closed and tight with a hint of sulfur. After it was open for a few minutes, we found briny scents of cherries, red and dark fruit, and leather. On the palate, we tasted raspberries, cherries, cocoa and tea leaves plus some salty, smoky notes. This wine had bright tannins, so while you can drink it now with rare beef, it should age well. We voted it number two.

 2005 Novelty Hill Cabernet Sauvignon, $23.99.

The bouquet offered black cherry stems, caramelized fruit, butter, dill weed, eucalyptus and lots of new oak. The characteristics of the aroma carried over in the mouth, along with tastes of green cedar, coconut skin and clove. Most ready to drink of the five, it was instant gratification. The finish was a bit hot.

 2005 Chateau Ste. Michelle Indian Wells Cabernet Sauvignon, $19.99.

We discovered smoky, dusty scents of stewed fruit and black pepper - resembling the nose of a zinfandel or syrah. The wine had a creamy texture that was fresh and lively on the tongue, with green and ashy fruit flavors. This wine had a nice balance between the sour fruit flavors and acids.

 2006 Castle Rock Cabernet Sauvignon, $13.99.

The aroma suggested cranberries, blueberries, cherry stems, dried herbs, tomato vines and pomegranate juice. This wine was medium-bodied but rich tasting, with tastes of cherry stems, coffee and pomegranate. The flavors lingered a long time. At a price significantly lower than the other four, this would be a good choice for the budget conscious.

SURFING THE WINE SHELVES

 2006 Frog's Leap Rutherford Napa Valley Merlot, $34.

Aromas of plums, red cherries, red currants and dusty cocoa, with notes of tobacco and herbs. In the mouth, soft and feminine for a merlot, with pretty but not overwhelming fruit.

 2005 Napa Ridge Napa Valley Chardonnay, $12.

Aromas of green apples, tropical fruit and buttered toast. Nice acidity in the mouth that cleansed the palate.

 2007 Lindemans Bin 75 Riesling, $7.99.

Aromas of lemon and lime, with a hint of minerality. Fruity sweet on the palate, good for cooling the tongue with spicy Asian food.

 2006 Lake Sonoma Dry Creek Valley Zinfandel, $19.

Scents of jammy fruits, including blueberries, plums and blackberries, plus pepper and spice. Rich and peppery in the mouth with a long finish.

 2007 Jackson-Triggs Proprietors Reserve Vidal Icewine, $25.

Aromas of candied apricots and tropical fruit. Silky and creamy in the mouth, but without a cloying sweetness. Crisp on the finish.

 2005 Raymond Napa Valley Reserve Merlot, $24.

Lots of red fruit in the aroma: cherries, plums, raspberries. Also scents of tobacco, mint and pepper. Rich and round in the mouth with nice oaking.