The Recession Guide to Wine
More resilient than a cockroach, drunkenness pervades almost every level of society, social standing be damned. Adverse climates can't stop it, nor can war nor prohibition; a worldwide recession has no shot at subduing it. While imbibing will continue, means will shrink. Thus, even the most discerning Dionysians have begun to look for more affordable grape juice. That said, cork dorks need not indulge in swill. There are worthy bottles that will keep your bank account out of the red while your teeth stay purple. Here's a look at some of the best.
Do you remember when the Beatles first went to the United States? I don't either, but I've seen enough footage to get the gist: excitement ensued. Lately, the wine community has had its drunken heart set aflutter by an Argentine import: Familia Zuccardi's Fuzion. A Shiraz/Malbec blend, it capitalizes on two things that Argentina does well: subtlety and fruitiness. Though the two characteristics seem mutually exclusive, this bottle toes the line admirably. Oh, and it retails for $7.45. Thus, it's been disappearing from the racks at a dizzying pace. Recently, while on a sylvan trek, a friend stumbled over a freshly delivered shipment at a Peterborough LCBO. He wisely picked up a case. If you're as fortunate, stock up.
While Fuzion may prove a hard find -- for the time being, anyway -- there are other fine Argentine alternatives. Notably, the always-reliable Trapiche continues to churn out solid bottles at pauper-pleasing prices. The straight up Malbec runs for a respectable $8.65 and retains its popularity for a good reason: it's a crowd-pleasing wine. Like Bob Marley on the stereo in a car, the Trapiche Malbec, no matter the season, should please everyone. Similarly, so too will the even-more-affordable Trapiche Merlot/Malbec ($7.45). Though not as pointed as the non-blend, it retains the winery's emphasis on undertones.
As of late, Argentina has seized much of the South American wine spotlight, yet its next-door neighbour to the west, Chile, has a catalogue of fantastic, affordable wines of its own. Many of the best choices come out of the same stable: Cono Sur. A relatively new vineyard, Cono Sur began in 1993. Since then, it has made a large dent in the inexpensive wine sphere. To get the most proverbial bang -- you have to love a proverbial bang -- for your buck, go with either the Sauvignon/Merlot or the Sauvignon/Shiraz. They're both robust and fruity, but you'll taste the 13.6% alcohol content (that's not necessarily a bad thing). The best part: they retail for $13.95 each. Not impressed? That price is for a magnum.
Certain oenophiles balk at the notion of sipping from a 1.5L bottle and, from an aesthetic point of view, that's understandable. For those with shaky tables and ingrained senses of wine propriety, Cono Sur also has a surprisingly strong Pinot Noir ($10.95). Unlike other Pinots, this one has pronounced tones, yet it doesn't overwhelm. For a pinot, the price is definitely right.
Like backpacking, drinking gets more expensive when you trade South America for Italy. Upping to mid-ranged but comparatively reasonable bottles, you can score a solid Italian bottle for around $15. For dinner parties, try a Masi. Not only are the winery's tariffs accommodating, they typically taste great and cost little. My favourite of the lot, the Masi Valpolicella (doesn't that just sound nice?) will cost you $15.45. It's worth the extra few dollars. A convergence of tones, it nicely merges spices and fruits (prominently, cherry) into a single package.
If the last bottle gave you vertigo, you can always go super-budget. Even in these tough times, Baby Duck still rings in at $6.95. Incidentally, gasoline prices are way down and turpentine and paint thinner are readily available; well, maybe you should stick to the above selections.