Wine and Spirits / A rising star
Call the Clos de Gat winery a boutique or an artisanal winery as you like, but since its first wines appeared from the 2001 vintages, the winery has proven itself a continuously rising star, today indeed one of the very best wineries in the country. The winery has just released nine wines from the 2005, 2006 and 2007 vintages.
Located on Kibbutz Har'el in the Jerusalem Hills, this joint project of the kibbutz and Australian-trained winemaker Eyal Rotem released its first wines from the 2001 vintage. The name "Clos de Gat" is a play on words - the French clos is an enclosed vineyard surrounded by stone walls or wind-breaks, while the Hebrew "gat" is an antique wine press. With the exception of the Chardonnay grapes in the 2002 wine, all the grapes have come from the winery's own vineyards, which now include Cabernet, Merlot, Petit Verdot, Syrah and most recently the winery's own Chardonnay. Advertisement
Production is currently about 50,000 bottle annually. The winery releases wines in three series, the Bordeaux blend Clos de Gat, Sycra (Aramaic for "bright red") and Har'el. From the 2003 vintage on, all the wines have been made with wild yeasts.
The prices listed are those at the Derekh HaYain (Wine Route) chain of stores. If purchased directly from the winery, prices will be discounted by 10 percent on single bottles or 20 percent on purchases of a full case of 12 bottles. The winery can be contacted to arrange visits or purchased by telephoning (02) 999-3505.
Clos de Gat, Chardonnay, 2007: Deep bright gold in color, full-bodied, reflecting its 12 months sur lie in oak with no battonage has a near creamy texture, opens with delicate honeyed green apple and pear notes, those concentrated and well focused and showing fine balance with just enough acidity to keep the wine fresh. Closes with an earthy-mineral overlay that lingers nicely. Generous, mouth-filling and almost extravagant, the wine is approachable now but will be at its best only from 2010-2015. NIS 169. Score 93.
Clos de Gat, Syrah, Har'el, 2007: Dark, almost impenetrable royal purple, full-bodied, with generous soft tannins integrating nicely. Blended with 15 percent of Cabernet Sauvignon and oak aged for 15 months, a generously spicy wine opening to show wild berry, plum and black cherry fruits, those going on to revel notes of sage, minerals and dark chocolate. Deep and complex, with a long finish on which tannins, red cherries and floral notes make themselves comfortably felt. Approachable now but best 2010-2015. NIS 145. Score 93.
Clos de Gat, Ayalon Valley, 2005: A Bordeaux blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Petit Verdot (63 percent, 30 percent and 7 percent) given a distinct Mediterranean note by touches of black olives and mint. Dark garnet, opens with a sweet red nose that overlayed with note of spicy cedar wood. Showing soft, mouth-coating tannins, opens to revel currant, blackberries and notes of slate. On the long and generous finish look for notes of raspberries and mocha. Approachable now but best from mid-2009-2014, perhaps longer. NIS 185. Score 93.
Clos de Gat, Merlot, Sycra, 2006: Full-bodied, reflecting its 20 months in new oak with generous spicy wood and equally generous but softly mouth-coating tannins, those in fine balance with fruits and acidity. Opens with currant, purple plum and mocha notes, those yielding to blackberry, citrus peel and light herbal and tobacco overtones. NIS 250. Score 93.
Clos de Gat, Cabernet Sauvignon, Har'el, 2007: A blend of 87 percent Cabernet Sauvignon, 9 percent Merlot and 4 percent Petit Verdot. Deep garnet in color, medium- to full-bodied (leaning toward the full) and firmly tannic, opens with an unusual but very appealing light musky note and then goes on to well-focused red currants and cherries, those supported nicely by notes of freshly turned earth and Mediterranean herbs. Supple, rich and deep, with a finish that goes on seemingly without end. Approachable and enjoyable now but best 2010-2016. NIS 130. Score 92.
Clos de Gat, Merlot, Har'el, 2007: Royal purple to black, muscular, with bold tannins and spicy oak integrating nicely. Made entirely from Merlot grapes, aged in barriques for 14 months. On first attack: near-sweet plum and cocoa aromas and flavors, those yielding to notes of currant jam and licorice. A solid finish on which arise notes of citrus peel. Needs some time. Approachable by mid-2009 but best 2010-2015. NIS 130. Score 92.
Clos de Gat, Chanson Blanc, 2007: A well-crafted unoaked blend of Chardonnay, Semillon, Viognier and Chenin Blanc (about 75 percent, 15 percent, 7 percent and 3 percent respectively). Pale gold in color with orange reflections, medium-bodied, opening with minerals and citrus fruits, those opening in the glass to reveal passion fruits and ripe melon. Long, lively and thought-provoking. Drink now-2010. NIS 100. Score 91.
Recanati Reserve, Cabernet Franc, 2006: With its once-firm tannins now integrating nicely, showing medium-dark garnet, full-bodied, and reflecting its 15 months in oak with generous but not imposing sweet cedar. Dark berry, black cherry and plum fruits highlighted by notes of tobacco, bell peppers and bittersweet chocolate, all lingering nicely on the finish. Drink now-2013. NIS 95. Score 91. K
Recanati Reserve, Petite Sirah-Zinfandel, 2006: Reflecting its eight months in oak with gently smokey and spicy wood and softly caressing tannins, a blend of 80 percent Petite Sirah and 20 percent Zinfandel. Youthful royal-purple opens to reveal blackberry, pomegranate, mocha and sage notes. Drink now-2012. NIS 90. Score 90. K