Rustic setting for a Sonoma giant

For its modest size, the 33-acre Kenwood Vineyards in Sonoma is a production behemoth, cranking out nearly 600,000 cases a year in an array of varietals including Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Zinfandel, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Noir, Gewurztraminer and Merlot. Within its tasting room, visitors can also sample Pinot Gris, sparkling wine, White Zinfandel, Syrah, a Pinot Noir Rosé, a table white, a table red and a table rosé. Except just 24 acres are planted on the estate, and all to Merlot.

 So how is this neat trick accomplished? A prominent sign at the entry, just past rows of vines snaking up a gentle slope, gives a clue: "Grape Deliveries Here." Kenwood sources a lot of fruit from other Sonoma County vineyards, fermenting in more than 125 stainless steel and upright oak tanks along with some 14,000 French and American oak barrels.

Yet few visitors will realize how massive the scale is - the rustic setting is the former Pagani Brothers Winery, established in 1906 when wine was sold straight from the barrel into the jug. In 1970, the property was taken over and artfully modernized by winemaker Mike Lee and partners, so the current high-capacity facility is mostly concealed in the gracefully restored, original barn-like buildings.

The vibe: It takes some effort to slide open the colossal wooden doors leading into the tasting room, though the experience is pure ease inside. Concrete floors and a dark interior lit by stained glass encourage kicking back at the wood bar, while complimentary tastings of up to five out of 20 wines offer an extra-friendly touch. Reserve tasting prices maintain the amiable mood, at $2 each or $5 for three, from a choice of eight wines.

The team: The Lee group sold to current owner Gary Heck in 1998, who also owns Korbel Champagne Cellars, Valley of the Moon and Lake Sonoma Winery. Senior winemaker Pat Henderson previously worked at Valley of the Moon, plus a winery in the northwest, and before that was Kenwood's enologist for 10 years. Winemaker Mark Stupich has worked with Kenwood for more than 30 years.

The wines: Besides the straightforward varietals offered, the Artist Series Cabernet Sauvignon is touted as a limited production from the winery's best vineyards, with labels featuring original artwork by renowned artists. Another series, the Jack London, with a distinctive wolf logo, is sourced from Cabernet, Merlot and Zinfandel grapes farmed on the site of the author's historic ranch in Glen Ellen. Try the signature Sauvignon Blanc; the 2007 has a crisp palate with lemongrass and guava.

The experience: Warm and personable, with several silver-haired guides who happily announced that they, too, were enjoying their senior years as they shared tales of the property's 100-year-plus history. And if you've ever wondered about liquor laws in tasting rooms, yes, they do apply. A sign warned that imbibers who look under 35 years old will be carded, and our party cheerfully handed over our IDs. You may also be gently reminded that five free pours adds up, so "be careful on the winding roads."

The extras: Beyond browsing the fun souvenirs (a snow globe filled with tiny wine bottles, or a shirt proclaiming "tart and full-bodied"), there's not much to distract from the real purpose on hand: tasting all those wines.

Nearby: Kunde Estate (9825 Sonoma Highway, Kenwood; 707-833-5501, www.kunde.com); Chateau St. Jean (8555 Sonoma Highway, Kenwood; 707-833-4134, www.chateaustjean.com); VJB Vineyard & Cellars (9077 Sonoma Highway, Kenwood; 707-833-2300, www.vjbcellars.com).