Wine: Try tasting some Classicos from Chianti

Chianti Classico has an unusual history that began when Chianti was designated an official wine region in 1716, with only sangiovese grapes allowed in the wine.

In the 1850s, an influential politician added 15 percent canaiolo and 15 percent of a white grape called malvasia bianca which enhanced the aroma. That blend became official for almost 150 years when in 1995 the white grapes were taken out. In 2005, winemakers were allowed to make Chianti from 100 percent sangiovese.

The Chianti region is divided into eight sub-areas such as Classico and Rufina. Chianti Classicos generally have the best reputation, but quality can vary widely in each sub-area.

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I asked my wine-tasting group to compare five Classicos. The results of our blind tasting follow.

?2005 Rocco delle Macie Chianti Classico, $15.99. The aroma showed black currants, dried fruit, cola, nutmeg, wet limestone and angelica root. In the mouth, the wine was tight and young with an elegant texture. The soft tannins held our attention. Delicate yet powerful, this wine won our tasting. Decant for an hour or two before drinking or age.

?2005 Ruffino Tenuta Santedame Chianti Classico, $27.99.

We smelled cherries, plums, mushrooms, moist soil, chocolate, pepper, tea leaves and violets in the nose. On the tongue, we tasted flavors of black cherries, plums and a strong metallic element. The Ruffino's nice flavors with lots of earthy herbs and fruit won it second place in our tasting.

?2005 Castello D'Albola Chianti Classico, $28.99.

The aroma reminded us of sour cranberries, rhubarb, licorice, tea leaves and metallic notes. Lighter in body than the others, with a thinner texture, this wine had moderate to strong tannins. The flavors mirrored the nose. This wine needed food to be at its best because of the tannins. Decant an hour before or age. This wine ranked third in our tasting.

?2004 Castello di Bossi Chianti Classico, $27.99.

The bouquet included bright cherries, raisins, dates, anise, maple, soft licorice, malt and cloves. Black cherries, cloves and strong metallic notes made the first impression in the mouth, followed by raisin and date flavors. The acidity didn't kick in until the back of the mouth.

?2005 Gabbiano Chianti Classico, $14.99.

We discovered mild aromas of plums, coffee, mint, wintergreen and light scents of potting soil. Soft and round in the mouth, this wine was easy to drink, with good fruit on the palate. This was more a New World style because of the fruit-first impression in the mouth.

SURFING THE WINE SHELVES:

?2005 Estancia Central Coast Shiraz, $12.

An affordable shiraz with tastes of dark berries, plum, chocolate and spice. An easy drinking companion to burgers or pizza.

?2005 Waterstone Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon, $26.

A bouquet of black cherries, black currants, dark plums, vanilla and cedar. The palate mirrored the aromas, with strong tannins. Decant an hour early or age for a few years.

?2005 Falcor Durrell Vineyard Sonoma Chardonnay, $34.

Pretty aromas of green apples, pears, mangoes and minerals with a hint of spice. More tropical fruit on the palate, with good balance of fruit, minerals and acidity.

?2006 Espiritu de Chile Shiraz-Cabernet Sauvignon, $11.

Aromas of dried cherries and plums, with notes of coffee and oak. In the mouth, it was rough around the edges, with a bit of a bite on the tongue.

?2006 Hess Su'skol Vineyard Late Harvest Chardonnay, $50 for a half bottle.

This was a well-balanced dessert or appetizer wine with good acids to go with the sugar and fruit. Nice flavors of oranges, green apples, dried apricots and honey.

?2006 Francis Ford Coppola Director's Cut Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon, $26.

Aromas of cherries, plums, currants and cedar. Dense and dark, it was luscious in the mouth with mild tannins.