Wine: Turning grapes into gold in Washington
Considering all the rain and snow that has been dumping on Washington state, it may sound strange to call its eastern expanding wine country a region made up of high desert. But such is the case, as the finest grapes, particularly reds, come from the warm eastern parts of the state, including the Columbia Valley, Yakima Valley and Walla Walla regions. The various valleys' warm summer days and mild evenings result in immensely concentrated wines, particularly their cabernets, merlot and syrah. Usual conditions in the area see low rainfall of 6 to 8 inches per year, allowing winemakers the unique opportunity of managing their vineyard growth through drip irrigation.
Washington is the second- largest producer of premium wine in the country, with more than 350 wine grape growers and 500 producers.
Most wines carry the Columbia Valley appellation, which covers an immense part of the state as the Columbia River starts its flow in the north and zigzags south before emptying in the Pacific. While six other smaller subviticulture areas such as Walla Walla, Horse Heaven Hill, and Wahluke Slope get some attention, the encompassing Columbia Valley appellation is the largest and carries the potential to be one of the largest in the country. An
11 million-acre area has been approved, but less than 20,000 acres are in use.
The creation of a Wine Quality Alliance to oversee standards, including label language, shows how serious the state is about the industry. Controls on the use of the term "reserve" and the requirement that
100 percent of the grapes come from the region stated on the label are few of the efforts by the alliance.
Chateau St. Michelle 2007 Riesling
The first winery in the state and a longtime pioneer in production of riesling, its regular bottling of Columbia Valley Riesling is a great value and a good introduction to wines of the region. Peach aromas and nicely balanced citrus apricot flavors, make this a good white for pairing with Asian foods. About $9.
Northstar 2004 Merlot
A nicely crafted red from this Walla Walla winery. It displays dense flavors and a merlot intensity that is different than our California versions. Plum aromas burst from the glass and are followed by berry and cola flavors. A good winter red to serve with braised short ribs. About $30.
Columbia Crest 2006 Grand Estates Cabernet Sauvignon
Another great value. Here is a step up from its Two Vines line of Columbia Valley wines, which are solid reds at very affordable prices. The Grand Estates Cab offers more structure, along with balanced berry and red currant flavors, coupled with a touch of tannins in the clean finish. About $11.
Januik 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon
A former winemaker at Chateau St. Michelle, Mike Januik sources grapes for this cabernet from five highly regarded Columbia Valley vineyards. Plenty of ripe fruit and cocoa aromas give way to blueberry and dark fruit flavors. Powerful enough to cellar for a few years. About $30.