Wine: A new world to discover

AS FAR as wine is concerned, Portugal is something of a paradox. Since its glory days in the 15th and 16th centuries when it was responsible for the discovery of much of the New World, this ancient seafaring nation on the western flank of the Iberian peninsula has declined in power and influence – and so have its wines. The great port wines of the River Douro, for example, have arguably seen their finest hour.
Otherwise, quality levels are at an all-time high, and yet consumption is sadly not what it was. The Douro's table wines, admittedly, have caused some excitement, particularly in the American press, while Vinho Verde, the zippy white wines from the fADVERTISEMENTar north of the country, have also gained a modest following. But I can't help thinking that, given the quality on offer, we should be drinking a lot more Portuguese wine.

So why aren't we? One theory is that we're simply not familiar enough with the country's produce. While the British are happy to visit the Algarve and the rest of Portugal's coastline every summer, we have made little effort to get to know aragonez, touriga nacional, the unfortunately named bastardo or the rest of its 200 indigenous grape varieties.

France's famous grape varieties have the added recognition factor of being grown across the New World, while Italy's wines are familiar to us thanks to our long love affair with Italian cuisine. When was the last time you nipped out for a Portuguese?

One winemaker who has built up an enviable record in the country is David Baverstock. Having learned his science in South Australia's Barossa Valley, the softly spoken Aussie did much to boost the winemaking industry in Portugal when he brought New World winery hygiene and vineyard-focused winemaking to the Symington port-making dynasty more than 20 years ago.

Going on to establish his name with brands such as Graham's, Warre's and Dow's, his next move was to the sprawling Alentejo region, about 100 miles south of Lisbon. There, as technical director at the 2,000-hectare Esporão estate near Reguengos de Monsaraz, Baverstock has generated a fair bit of excitement with his fleshy, plummy reds. It has taken a lot of work. When he first arrived, in 1992, the wine was heavy, oxidised and not up to much. The region, which gets very cold in winter and blisteringly hot in summer, was better known for its arid landscape and cork forests; its wine, many critics argued, was simply awful.

Stainless-steel tanks, temperature-controlled equipment, good husbandry in the vineyard and American oak barrels all helped to improve quality in what Baverstock refers to as "New World winemaking techniques using Old World grapes". Most of what he makes goes to Portugal's domestic market, though in recent years more bottles have made their way to these shores – but not enough, according to the winemaker. "We just can't get people excited about Alentejo in the same way as we can other regions of Portugal," laments Baverstock. "I don't know what it is."

Compared with better-known regions, the wines offer very good quality at relatively affordable prices. Baverstock's whites are characterised by a clean, fresh purity with a judicious use of oak where appropriate. The reds are fuller, have lots of fleshy, red fruit and a spicy character. Again, their acidity and balance are faultless. Baverstock obviously has considerable talent – perhaps it's time we started buying more of his wines.

2005 Esporão Alicante Bouschet, Alentejo, Portugal, 14%, £10.66

This is very intense, with hints of cherries, raspberries, mulberries and leather. Well worth decanting to get the most of its rustic, toasty complexity.

2007 Esporão Verdelho, Alentejo, Portugal, 13.5%, £8.13

David Baverstock believes verdelho will be the next chardonnay, and you can see why. Crystal clear in the glass, it has an intense citrus character with some tropical notes. There is no oak, so it offers a crisp, fresh minerality with a long, spicy finish.

2007 Esporão Private Selection White, Alentejo, Portugal, 14.5%, £12.65

The nose on this wine is stunning: peach and melon, rounded off with a dollop of creamy, toasty oak. A blend of semillon, marsanne and rousanne, it has been matured in French oak barrels, giving the palate a delightful, savoury, buttery character. Compared with similar wines from Bordeaux or the Hunter Valley, it offers stunning value for money.

Stockist: Irvine Robertson Wines, 10 North Leith Sands, Edinburgh (0131 553 3521, www.irwines.co.uk)

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