Wine list watch: Rivoli restaurant in Berkeley

Rivoli has been a bright spot on upper Solano Avenue for almost 15 years. Chef-owner Wendy Brucker owner-general manager Roscoe Skipper have created a restaurant that has garnered national attention, yet remains an unpretentious neighborhood favorite.

Brucker's comforting menu provides interesting twists on favorites like fried carrots and porcini aioli that garnish a fork-tender Niman Ranch pot roast. The well-chosen, concise wine list developed by Skipper focuses on Old World wines. About one-third of the list are domestic picks, which include sought-after producers like Leonetti, Merry Edwards, Sea Smoke and Sean Thackrey.

By the numbers: More than 100 bottles: 11 sparklers ($29-$275, two halves); 30 whites ($27-$150, seven halves); two rosés (428-$30); 46 reds ($25-$150, eight halves). By the glass: five sparklers ($6.50-$15); five whites ($8-$11.25); two rosés ($7-$7.50); four reds ($9-$14.75)

Markup: Reasonable. Averages about twice retail or less, with some of the more expensive bottlings at close to retail plus corkage.

Corkage: $20

Best buy: NV Allimant-Laugner Alsace Cremant d'Alsace Rosé ($11 glass; $44 bottle). This elegant sparkler has depth and great expression of Pinot Noir fruit. It's fruity but dry, and versatile enough to complement much of the food, including the restaurant's signature portobello mushroom fritters.

Hidden gem: 2001 Aime Guibert Mas de Daumas Gassac VdP L'Herault ($50 half; $87 bottle). Made primarily with Cabernet Sauvignon, this wine has benefited from almost a decade in the bottle. A half bottle from noted producer Guibert was an unexpected find.

International intrigue: 2006 Glaetzer Riedencuvee Austria Zwiegelt ($9 glass; $36 bottle). Zwiegelt, a popular red Austrian grape variety, was developed in 1922 by crossing Blaufrankisch and St. Laurent. It is a fruity, medium-weight quaff with floral notes, reddish plum fruit and soft tannins, and will stand most anywhere a Gamay would.

Beer and spirits: Eight aperitifs including Gitana Hidalgo Manzanilla Sherry, Lillet Blanc and Kir Royale ($5-$9.50); six beers including one nonalcoholic ($4.50-$7.50), plus seven nonalcoholic beverages ($2-$6.75) besides sparkling water, coffee and tea. With a full liquor license due in late spring, Rivoli hopes to add grappa, Scotch, Cognac and classic cocktails to the list.

Special features: The restaurant's Web site posts the wine list and also offers Wine Line, which provides detailed information about many of the wines on the list. Skipper compiles chatty tasting notes as well as information on wine regions, producers and production techniques.

Sommelier's secret: A 200-bottle temperature-controlled red wine closet to serve all reds at 65 degrees.

Must-try pairing: The appetizer souffle of Point Reyes blue cheese with celery root and apple salad, toasted walnuts and balsamic syrup ($14.25) paired with a glass of NV Eric Bordelet Poire L'Authentique Normandy Cider ($6.50), which is biodynamic.

Room to improve: The by-the-glass reds are medium-bodied. Addition of a bigger red like Cabernet Sauvignon or Syrah would be welcome, especially to pair with weightier beef dishes.