Ste. Michelle Is Planting
Washington's largest winery demonstrates optimism, expanding premium vineyards
New vines are going in at Canoe Ridge Vineyard, one of Washington's most renowned, reflecting Chateau Ste. Michelle's optimism in the future of its high-end wines.
Paterson, Wash. -- Chateau Ste. Michelle Wine Estates is casting a vote of confidence in the future with the expansion of its Cold Creek and Canoe Ridge vineyards. Despite glum forecasts suggesting the current recession could last through 2010 (see article), the Woodinville-based winery is planting more than 200 acres of vines to support its production of premium wines, including the Ethos line and Col Solare (produced in partnership with Italy's Antinori family). The first grapes from the new plantings will be harvested in 2010.
"This is a long-term investment in our highest-tier vineyards," said Kevin Corliss, director of vineyard operations for Chateau Ste. Michelle in a recent interview with Wines & Vines. Moreover, the efforts are targeted, taking advantage of specific site conditions with an eye to serving the needs of its premium wine production.
"It's not vast acreages in these expansions. It's focused on providing fruit from our own vineyards for our upper-tier, single-vineyard and above type wines," Corliss said.
The biggest expansion will be at Cold Creek, where Chateau Ste. Michelle is working with fresh ground for which it was recently able to secure water rights. The ability to irrigate more than 150 acres of new vineyard prompted the planting push. "It's the first time we've been able to expand the vineyard," Corliss said.
Vineyard manager Mimi Nye inspects new vines at Canoe Ridge. (right)
In addition to 30 acres in 2008, an additional 172 acres will be planted through 2009. The new plantings will reflect research into the best Cabernet Sauvignon clones for the site, as well as potential locations for Rhône varietals to support the vineyard's Syrah program.
Moving away from FPS 8, the traditional Cabernet Sauvignon clone in the state, Chateau Ste. Michelle has identified FPS clones 2, 4, 6, 10 and 21 for Cold Creek. Clones 2, 4 and 10 are especially promising, though 10 hasn't been particularly favored in California. FPS 6 is less favored, Corliss said, because of its "consistently inconsistent" performance.
The plantings at Canoe Ridge will use remaining pockets of bare land in the vineyard, and also replace approximately 14 acres of Sangiovese vines that weren't fitting into the market. Grenache is being planted on the thinner soils of the parcel and Mourvèdre on the deeper soils.
Merlot thrives at Canoe Ridge, Corliss said, so alternatives to the state's standard Merlot clone, FPS 3, were planted this past year. Merlot clones FPS 15, 6 and 1 are also preferred at Canoe Ridge, Corliss said. FPS 15 also doing well at the Cold Creek vineyard.
While consumers are generally shifting into cheaper (see Wines & Vines article), value-oriented wines in the face of tough economic times, Chateau Ste. Michelle considers that the market for reliable upper-end wines is resilient. Keith Love, vice president, communications for Chateau Ste. Michelle, expects consumer taste to shift towards cheaper wines through 2009, but he also believes Chateau Ste. Michelle offers a mix of wines that positions it to weather any economic storms.
Corliss shares Love's opinion, noting that demand for fruit from the Cold Creek and Canoe Ridge has been steady through previous economic downturns. Indeed, the original plantings at Cold Creek occurred in 1973, during one of the worst recessions in living memory. The vineyard has since grown to 730 acres, and a recession was no reason to forgo further expansion.
"(Winemakers) Bob Bertheau and Ray Einberger and others are always looking for a little more Cold Creek Cabernet, a little more Canoe Ridge Merlot," Corliss said. "Year-in, year-out, recession-in and recession-out, those have always done well. There's always been a market."