Hispanics Move From Migrant Workers To Napa Valley Vintners

NAPA, CALIFORNIA -- Although most laborers in the Napa Valley vineyards are Mexicans, until recently few have taken the step to becoming vintners, a trend that now seems to be on the rise.

Mexican-American Alex Sotelo, 33, has his name on a limited edition of wines, some 2,000 cases per year, with bottles that sell for more than $28 each.

When he arrived in Napa at the age of 19 he thought "it was the most beautiful place in the world," and he stayed here to make a career in the world of winemaking. He began as many did, in the fields.

"I wanted something more. I saw the possibility of making wine. If I was doing it successfully for others, I could also do it for myself," Sotelo told Efe.

The immigrant born and raised in the central Mexican state of Zacatecas was soon promoted to different positions at the Robert Pecota Winery, where he became director of production and oenology.

"I went to school, I studied English, art and photography before becoming a winegrower," Sotelo said.

He was also lucky enough to have his papers in order, thanks to his grandmother, a U.S. citizen.

"As an immigrant it's not easy but it's not impossible. You have to train, study and persevere. You have to be ready for what's good and what's bad," he said.

Alex Sotelo Cellars is currently distributing in the country's most important markets including New York, New Jersey, Washington, Virginia and Texas.

In 2006 he and two Mexican friends created Alma Wines with the goal of promoting themselves to business owners.

The wine company produces Sauvignon Blanc and red wines like Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Malbec.

He said that the presence of Hispanics as winery owners has increased in recent years and is a growing trend.

Estimates put close to a score of wineries or vineyards under Hispanic ownership, including such distinguished names as Quintessa-Rutherford of the Chileans Agustin and Valeria Huneeus, Mi Sueno Winery belonging to Rolando Herrera, Frias Family Vineyard of the Mexican family of the same name, Renteria Wines founded by the Mexican Salvador Renteria, and Ceja Vineyards.

Amelia Moran Ceja, the first Mexican-American woman to run a winery, says it's only the beginning.

"I know of five Latino families that launched their own wine brands under their own labels this year. It's so exciting," Moran Ceja, whose family worked in the Napa and Sonoma valley for more than 40 years, told Efe.

"We're three generations working side by side, nourishing the philosophy of the first generation with the fresh ideas of the younger generations. It's wonderful. It's a symbiotic relationship," said the president of Ceja Vineyards, who has received numerous honors for her work managing the family firm.

"I began working in the vineyards and now I own them. What's more, having one of the 'best-known small brands' in the country shows the contribution of immigrants and vineyard workers to this competitive industry," the proud businesswoman said.

Her firm currently has 113 acres planted with grapes and among her clients are Acacia, Robert Craig, Rombauer, Mumm and La Crema.

She began to produce wines under her own label in 2001, offering such varietals as Pinot Noir, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Syrah.