Wine and Spirits / Two Italian families
The wines of the Antinori family have had a good name since 1385, when Giovanni di Piero Antinori joined the Florentine Guild of Vintners. Today, with the Marchesi Piero Antinori and his daughters in charge of the various family estates, the wines continue to have an exceptionally good name, in terms of both quality and value for money. Simply stated, whether an Antinori wine is going for NIS 50 or NIS 1,500, the wines always live up to their expectations.
Antinori, Solaia, 2004: Every bit as superb as the 1997 and 2003 releases. Full-bodied, intense and concentrated, with chewy but gently mouth-coating tannins and a light hand with spicy oak, opening in the glass to reveal layer after layer of black currant, black cherry, wild berry and floral notes. From mid-palate on look for notes of dried, candied fruits and, with the tannins rising, a long and generous finish. Approachable and enjoyable now but best from 2010-2022, perhaps longer. NIS 1,280. Score 96. Advertisement
Antinori, Tignanello, 2005: A blend of Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc, showing full-bodied, with gently caressing tannins and an appealing trace of spicy wood. Opens on the palate to reveal a generous array of red and black berries, cassis and minted chocolate notes. Showing just fine now, thank you, but the wine will be at its best only from 2012, and then cellaring nicely until 2018. NIS 400. Score 93.
Antinori, Guado Al Tasso, Bolgheri Superiore Riserva, 2005: Full-bodied, with chewy but gentle tannins parting to reveal spicy red and black berries, currants and notes of Mediterranean herbs. A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah. Long and generous. Best 2010-2018. NIS 425. Score 94.
Antinori, Chianti Classico Riserva, Badia a Passignano, 2005: Super dark garnet, full-bodied, with chewy, near-sweet tannins. Opens with notes of red and black berries and fresh herbs, goes on to reveal black cherries and minerals, all leading to a long finish with an appealing note of espresso arising. Best starting in 2010. NIS 215. Score 91.
Antinori, Chianti Classico, Peppoli, Tuscany, 2006: Garnet to royal purple, medium- to full-bodied, with soft tannins integrating nicely and showing generous black and red berry notes on first attack, those opening to reveal notes of spring flowers and bitter-sweet chocolate and, on the long finish, hints of minerals and white pepper. Drink now-2012. NIS 95. Score 90.
Antinori, Brunello di Montalcino, Pian delle Vigne, 2003: Dark garnet to royal purple, full-bodied, with generous spicy oak influence. Opens in the glass to reveal near-sweet blackberries, raisins and Oriental spices. A good but not great Brunello. Drink now-2011. NIS 320. Score 89.
Antinori, Santa Cristina, Toscana, 2006: A blend of Sangiovese with a bit of Merlot blended in and, as it is almost every year, a soft, round red with generous notes of cherries, berries and cassis, those matched by hints of citrus peel and sweet herbs. Nothing greatly complex here but a good quaffer and a fine accompaniment to food. Drink now or in the next year or so. NIS 56. Score 86.
The Piccini Family
Established in 1882 in the heart of Tuscany by Angiolo Piccini, the Piccini winery is still a family owned business. Now in its fourth generation, the winery is large enough that it controls 12% of the entire Chianti Classico market. The wines surprise by their often excellent value for money.
Piccini, Chianti, Orange Label, 2006: Dark youthful ruby to garnet in color, a medium-bodied blend of Sangiovese and Canaiolo grapes. Soft tannins and crisp acidity highlight cherry and wild berry fruits, along with a hint of cedar wood. Nothing complex here but a lovely wine to match pizza, pasta and veal dishes. Drink now or in the next year or so. NIS 45. Score 85.
Piccini Chianti Classico, Solco, 2006: Ruby to garnet, medium-bodied, with soft, gently caressing tannins, an appealing round wine showing generous black currant, raspberry and blueberry notes. Round, fruity and moderately-long. Drink now-2010. NIS 62. Score 86.
Piccini, Chianti Riserva, 2004: Made entirely from Sangiovese grapes, a medium-bodied, softly tannic red showing blackberries and plums on a lightly spicy background. Easy to enjoy and a good match for chicken, veal or shrimp-based dishes. Drink now-2010. NIS 60. Score 86.
Piccini, Chianti Classico Riserva, 2004: Dark garnet, medium-bodied, with gently caressing tannins and a generous mineral note. On the nose and palate wild berries, red plums and a hint of dark chocolate. On the moderately-long finish a nice hint of tobacco. Drink now-2010. NIS 90. Score 87.
Piccini, Brunello di Montalcino, Villa al Cortile, 2003: A thoroughly modern Brunello, reflecting its time in oak with spices and vanilla. Medium- to full-bodied, with tannins integrating nicely now and opening to show red berries, cassis and vanilla notes, and a long mouth-filling finish with the tannis rising. Drink now-2013. Score 90.
Piccini, Chianti Riserva, Selezione Oro, 2004: A dark garnet, medium- to full-bodied blend of 90% Sangiovese and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon. Aged partly in large oak casks and partly in barriques, a generous, soft and easy wine with enough complexities to grab our attention. Opens with a floral nose that goes on to reveal dried cherries and berries, all supported nicely by notes of minerals and vanilla. Not long, but rewarding and easy to drink. Drink now-2010. NIS 160. Score 88.
Piccini, Sasso al Poggio, 2004: With its blend of 60% Sangiovese and 20% each of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, this is the kind of wine that some think of as a "Super-Tuscan." Whatever you call it, this is a very nice wine indeed, opening with a light note of tar that yields comfortably to minerals, and then to a generous array of red plum, raspberry and red currant fruits. In the background a generous but not imposing hint of spicy oak, leading to a near-sweet finish that lingers nicely. Drink now-2013. NIS 160. Score 91.