Exciting growth in regional wineries

Ten years ago, there were three wineries in the region, and one was floundering. Today, there are 12 properties making wine for sale -- 10 in Chester County across the Pennsylvania line, and two in Cecil County in nearby Maryland, although not all have yet opened shop. And more wineries are on the drawing board.

The newest is Mario Patone's Patone Cellars, which made wine this year from purchased grapes and has bought land in West Grove, Pa. to develop as a winery and tasting room. "We hope to have the tasting room open this fall," Patone says, although he has not decided whether to plant the bulk of his grapes in West Grove or elsewhere.

IBM executive Morris Zwick, a graduate of the University of Maryland, established Terrapin Station winery on his wife Janet's family farm just west of Newark in Cecil County, Md. He began selling wine a few months ago, although he does not yet have a tasting room. Early indications are that the wines will be good and smartly marketed. I tasted a very nice dry vidal blanc that came in an attractive two-bottle box that I bought at Cherry Hill Liquors near Fair Hill, which specializes in Maryland wines. Also in Cecil County, Dove Valley opened its tasting room last year at its winery between Elkton and Rising Sun.

Back in Pennsylvania, Galer Estate made its first wines at the old Folly Hill property last fall and is in the process of building state-of-the-art facilities to open in 2010. Black Walnut in Sadsburyville already is selling wine, although it has had problems in getting local approvals for its tasting room. A March opening is planned.

The other seven wineries are fully operational and have a few vintages completed.

Meanwhile, there have been changes in the Brandywine Valley Wine Trail. Va La, one of the founders, decided to drop out because it wants to limit production and not participate in the big events, such as Barrels on the Brandywine each weekend in March. But this year, Black Walnut and the venerable Stargazers have joined, so there will be seven wineries pouring, including Chaddsford, Kreutz Creek, Paradocx, Penns Woods and Twin Brook. Patone has also joined, but will not participate in events before this fall. Galer Estate has expressed interest in joining later.

The current recession may slow local wine industry investments, and tasting room traffic may slow. Nevertheless, only two wineries have closed since the boom began -- Folly Hill and Smithbridge -- and both were immediately purchased and repurposed.

Meanwhile, the local wine industry is at 12 -- and counting.