Chile's Veramonte is bumping up its image with better, pricier wines

This is the Costco house brand, and the new merlot comes through with exceptional flavors for the price. It's lush and loaded with black cherry and mocha flavors. Tannins are ripe and smooth, the concentration is surprising, and there are no holes in this wine; it plays out smoothly with a very satisfying richness.

In another month or so they'll be starting the 2009 harvest in Chile, and if things continue as they have in recent years, the joy juice will be flowing. The past five or six vintages have been at least very good, with 2005 and 2007 just about perfect, and one industry analyst has said the country is the best-located in the world to combat climate change, given its natural geography, sustainable water supply and seemingly endless coast.

The only significant challenge facing Chilean winemakers is one that affects virtually every newcomer to the global wine scene: how to bump up its image as a producer of everyday, cheerful value wines to a serious competitor in the market for pricier, super premium wines.

One company working both ends with considerable success is Veramonte. It was the surprise winner on a recent Top 100 list published by online retailer Wine.com. There are a lot of these lists, but this one had an interesting spin: The wines were ranked strictly according to total bottle sales. Vox populi.

The most popular wine of 2008, says Wine.com, was Veramonte's 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserva. Nearby at No. 5 was Veramonte's 2007 Sauvignon Blanc Reserva; its 2006 Chardonnay Reserva was No. 21, and its premium red blend, called Primus, appeared at No. 15 (2004 vintage) and No. 90 (2005 vintage).

Veramonte is part of a small group of wineries owned by Agustin Huneeus, a native of Chile who previously developed the Caliterra and Errazuriz brands. Huneeus also owns the Quintessa winery in Napa, but of more interest to most consumers is his passion for Chile's Casablanca Valley. This pristine grape-growing region had almost no vineyards when he first explored in the early 1990s, but has quickly become known around the world, especially for its racy white wines.

Veramonte is headquartered there, with 1,100 acres of grapes farmed sustainably. Since they were introduced a decade ago, wines from this property have shown steady improvement while maintaining their bargain pricing. Primus, introduced in 2003, is the winery's Meritage blend.

The vintages named below may be passing from the market, but there is little need for concern. The newest vintages for all these wines should be just as good, if not better.

Veramonte 2007 Sauvignon Blanc Reserva ($10). Sauvignon blanc is the standard-bearer for Casablanca whites. Ultra-fresh, crisp and grassy, reminiscent of New Zealand versions, with perhaps more herb and less lime. Good lingering persistence brings in delicate notes of nettle and celery.

Veramonte 2006 Chardonnay Reserva ($10). A juicy, spicy, fruit-driven New World style of chardonnay with an interesting twist: a little kick to the melon and banana flavors that brings in lemon peel and juniper berry.

Veramonte 2006 Pinot Noir Reserva ($15). American winemaker Paul Hobbs consulted on this stylish but delicate effort. Lightly scented with rose petals and chocolate. Flavors bring mixed berries and cherry, with soft tannins and a suggestion of oak in the finish.

Veramonte 2006 Merlot ($10). Merlot is difficult to make well at this price, so don't look for Washington-style meat and muscle here. The fruit is just barely ripe, and flavors of leaf and moist earth abound. But the balance is good.Veramonte 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon ($10). Blend includes cabernet franc, carmenère and syrah, giving this flavors that don't exactly equate to standard cab. Bright and spicy, with tangy berry flavors set against mouth-drying tannins that carry a lingering impression of saltiness.

Veramonte 2005 Primus Red Blend ($20). Oddly, this red blend, which might be considered a genuine reserve effort, is simply labeled with its proprietary name, Primus. Half merlot, a third cabernet, the rest carmenère. Softer and rounder than Veramonte's cheaper reds, but I found it did not quite live up to the reputation of the vintage — a bit thin and weedy.